and no dream is altogether a dream

You know it'll be a good weekend when you wake up to photos of Wolfgang Jarnach's newest collection. And, of course, a mountain of concord grapes awaiting their demise (what should I make today - focaccia or granita?). And so. Wolfgang has entitled the collection (presented at this past LFW's Vauxhall Fashion Scout) 'traumnovelle // dream story', inspired by Arthur Schnitzler's novella of the same name. I have no idea what the novella is about, but the 'girls' side of the collection has a very operatic feel to me, as well as a blatant desire to hide. It's really an interesting juxtaposition to have a completely sheer over-dress beside a dress that hides both the shape and half the face of its wearer (I'd love to try on both of these pieces), or a corset beside a mound-ish cape. The 'boys' side of the collection (modeled by Wolfgang's brother), on the other hand, is more runway than opera, with gorgeous tailored jackets and a romantic palette perfect for a midnight garden party. I'm especially intrigued by the half-shirt/half-smoking jacket piece. The hybrid may simply be suggested by its styling, but in my mind that's really how it's constructed. Ah Wolfgang, you remain my favorite German designer. And have I mentioned that I wear my scarf from you nearly every cold day?

(Photos via NJAL)

This is your opponent, Earthling

While the sun has finally peaked out today (oh, happy day!), this harsh winter weather is still feeling the need to remove all the moisture from my skin as if it's a giant Scotch-Brite scouring sponge. And so today I'm pretending I'm in a warmer and more humid climate by putting this outfit together from my virtual closet. I know the boots don't make much sense here, but I've suddenly become obsessed with them, and will likely be purchasing them in time to break them in for New York. I'm still cringing at the though of buying leather shoes, but it just seems so darn wasteful to keep buying non-leather shoes that last only a few months. Even my beloved Adidas by Stella McCartney snow-walking machines are breaking down, for goodness sakes. Truth is, I was all set to by this pair of Campers To&ether boots after finding them on Yoox.com for about a quarter of what they sell at my local Gravity Pope. Something was holding me back though, even though they were only available in my exact size. Then I came upon a Dutch label called MAG, who uses only 100% ecological leather. And they're pretty much the most comfortable things I've ever put on. They look pretty kickass too. Like something an 80-year old Lisbeth Salander would wear. 

So, the outfit in question begins with the utterly gorgeous (and lined) silk tulle Cinema Tea Gown of the Spring 2011 collection from (the utterly adorable) Alexandra Grecco. I'm not sure if I'd get the dress in grey or in black, but I'd definitely layer it over one of Lauren's new limited edition silk Husband Tanks. Let's go with a pop of colour for this exercise. Then I'd do my regular dress-over-pants thing with my Wolfgang Jarnach trousers (which fit even nicer after biking every day or two), and then top (bottom?) it all off with the MAG boots. Paired with my new best friend (a.k.a. Aveda's Intensive Hydrating Masque) and a nice glass of refreshing Mission Hill Pinot Grigio, I feel much better.

Strength Through Wounding

Well, I just went and made myself feel silly. I'm supposed to be kitty-sitting right now, but I still needed a few hours to myself to fully recuperate from yesterday. And so, leaving the kitty in my man's capable hands, I decided to dress myself up and go to the farmer's market and to the bookstore to pick up the new issue of POP was out and wanted to get that. However, I had forgotten who was on the cover of this issue, and thus I recoiled slightly at the sight of it. Not that I have anything against the cover person (being a certain Ms. Spears), I just never thought I'd see the day when I'd buy a magazine (or anything, for that matter) with her on it. Sigh. The level of silliness was perhaps increased by the fact that I picked up a second magazine, being AnOther, simply because it has Björk on the cover (and because I'm a sucker for publications with nice heavy paper). If I had been the cashier that checked me out, I'm pretty sure my head would've exploded from seeing these two covers together.

At any rate, at least I found a new favorite fall outfit for this excursion. Or I should say fall/winter outfit. You can practically see snow in the air, it just has to find the courage to materialize and show up on the ground. So, said outfit was my ArtLab jacket (layered over my marriage day hoodie), my (burgundy) Mandula dress (layered over a tee) worn as a top with the bottom tie as an empire waistline, my Wolfgang Jarnach pants (which have the most unique and expertly crafted seams that I have ever seen on a pair of pants - see below), and, of course, my trusty monochrome Chucks. I really think I did the whole New York trip wrong. I should've known that I thrive in colder weather that not only allows for but requires tons of layers. Next time.

And on a related note (related in my head anyway, as my Wolfgang Jarnach pants remind me of another pair of skinny-ish navy pants I used to wear...), it's been a whole decade since meeting my man and since first hearing AFI (my man being responsible for the latter, pretty much as soon as I had met him). So here's a video from the first AFI show I ever attended, which changed my world as I knew it. 

The show was in March by the way, and not close to Halloween, as you might think from the jack-o'-lanterns. Just like you might think my deck is where pumpkins go to die. Methinks we carved them a wee bit too early this year, though the frost/snow goblins would've gotten them in the end anyway. Sigh.

Top 18 Finds of Summer '10

I feel like I should've posted this even before my trip, as it's been fall here for a few weeks and some trees have already lost most of their leaves. Did I mention it's supposed to snow this week? Also, this is the first of my Top Finds posts that I now have to label with a year, since I've already done a top summer post here on kOs before. In case you were wondering. Ah, it's good to have my scarves back. Though they were never really gone. But before I (continue to) enjoy them, here's some warmer articles to (re-)read first.

1) Designer: Wolfgang Jarnach
2) Fashion grad student: Laura Siegel
3) Label: SHIN
4) New collection: Dori Tomcsanyi's S/S 10 collection, Marie Saint Pierre's F/W 10/11 collection
5) Fashion show: Fashion's Night Out - The Show
6) Basic piece: Button up shirt from Wolfgang Jarnach, Mad Marv jeans from Ravishing Mad
7) Future purchase: Emily Ryan dress
8) Future purchase if I win the lottery: Anything from Marc le Bihan.
9) Most musical post: Interview with Tyler W
10) Favorite new-to-me album: Swing Swing by Nicolas Repac
11) Best use of cross-stitch: This, from Susie Quillinan.
12) Most interesting way to recruit blood donors: This.
13) Most worn pieces: complexgeometries wave t, mydearthing Carly Dress
14) Most proud moment: Konrad Parol on Dazed Digital
15) Most commented on thing worn in NYC: ArtLab's Couture Pleated Harness No. 3
16) Best vacation ever (ie. Biggest understatement ever): One spectacular week in Brooklyn and Manhattan.
17) Most bizarre vacation ever: This, as depicted by some ArtLab skirts.
18) Most amazing insect-inspired dress ever: This, by Donovan Tjon.

You oughta know

If you're like me and you were rather disappointed to miss out on Wolfgang Jarnach's pop-up shop, you'll be happy to know that some of his pieces are now available online via email, including some hand-dyed tees, wonderful blouses, and pants galore! I really love those cross-over pants (available in two colours), reminiscent of my Vivienne Westwood harem pants. And I'm intrigued by the beige pants (even though they have pleats), as they're a cashmere/linen blend (there are also two other colours available, but in different fabrics). But I think I'm leaning towards the zip pants (also available in beige). Yes, they're on male model in the photo here, but I happen to know that they look fabulous on women as well. I suggest you prepare yourself to hear and see more about Wolfgang around here. Because I think this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship...

Interview with Wolfgang Jarnach

The handsome face you're seeing here is that of Wolfgang Jarnach, my favorite fashion design grad student pick of last fall. After graduating from the Akademie Mode and Design in Munich, Wolfgang has been getting a lot of mileage out of his spectacular award-winning grad collection, 'fin de partie'. This delightful 23-year- old showed his collection at this past London Graduate Fashion Week, has already garnered numerous media features, and is in the middle of a three-week long pop-up shop that makes me wish I were much closer to Germany. While you've already seen the photos of his pieces here, I wanted to take the opportunity to repost them in the order Wolfgang intended. For the collection is purposely built in five outfit pairs or 'positions'. You may note that in moving through positions one through four, factors such as volume, details, and diversity increase, while in the last pair, the outfits are rather minimal and focus on the body, while still retaining an essence of the previous positions. I don't know about you, but I'm quite captivated by such a young designer who puts so much thought into one collection, especially as it's only the first one to be available to the fashionable public. I have a feeling I'm going to proudly revisit this interview often, as I can't help but believe that the name of Wolfgang Jarnach will be known outside of Germany in no time. 

***

How would you describe your grad collection in one sentence?

Contemporary historia - reflecting my view on everything.

Do you wear your own designs?

Sometimes I wear my own designs, but I think my little brother looks better in them - he is like my house model!

What is the German/Munich fashion scene like? How has this affected your own designs?

The German/Munich fashion scene is constantly growing, with many creative and individual people, but the public is still too focused on the well-established brands to recognize and realize this. My designs are experimental and individualistic, with a sense of tradition in it. Maybe this is my response to where I grew up.

Does music inspire your work at all, and what album do you turn on first on a rainy day?

Yeah of course music is a huge inspiration! The rainy day album is definitely Rules from The Whitest Boy Alive - it brings me up again, but in a melancholy way...

Is your workspace calm or chaotic?

This depends on the project. In the beginning, it’s calm and proper, but with the times it will get messy and 'inspiring'.

What is your favorite fashion memory?

Well, my favorite fashion memory is failing the interim examination but getting the award for the best visionary collection concept at the end of my studies! The way of fashion is incomprehensible!

Who is your favorite designer?

I don't have one favorite designer. Each designer has special things I'm interested in - eg. I like Haider Ackermann’s draping, Neil Barrett’s masculinity, Kris van Assche’s layering and Riccardo Tisci’s beautifully crafted lace pieces...

What is your favorite piece from your grad collection?

My favorite outfit is the second girls’ position with the transparent silk chiffon blouse with its historical lace shoulder pads, the blue velours leather corset and the pocket hoops. But my favorite single piece is the leather jacket with the exaggerated shoulders.

If you could design an outfit for anyone, who would that be?

I would love to design an outfit for Jude Law and Olivia Wild as a couple. But I fear they don't even know each other...

And lastly, what are your future plans?

In September I will go to London to study for a Masters there for one year. But I want to bring my pop-up store concept to more cities. Maybe the next step is a temporary store in London. In the far future, I want to establish my own brand with 'real' stores, and maybe I will come back to Munich to start them here, again.

***

It's kind of nice having some fine young men around kOs, eh? Anywho, make sure to bookmark Wolfgang's website, and join his Facebook page for updates. Oh, and if you're around the Munich area, can you ask him where he got that gorgeous scarf he's wearing? I think they might be available at his pop-up shop...

(Photos by Mathis Leicht)

Wolfgang Jarnach - PopUp Preysing Palais

For those of you around Munich, starting today is a special 3-week long pop-up shop featuring pieces from one of my favorite design grads, Wolfgang Jarnach. There something for both men and women, and all the clothing is of course handmade in Germany. Does someone want to pick something up for me? Please? Here's the address in case my plea (and your fashion sensibilities) interests you:

– PopUp Preysing Palais –

!! 24.07. – 14.08.2010 !!

mo-sa 10am-7pm

3weeks – limited clothes

mens-/ womenswear

handmade in germany

Preysing Palais Passage

Residenzstraße 27

80333 München

Go here for more info!

Top 18 Finds of the Fall

In case you weren't convinced by the snow, cold weather, and holiday festivities already, today is the official start of Winter 09/10. Well, at least in the northern hemisphere. And so, with autumn now long gone, I bring to you the top 18ish finds/posts during the past season of my blog. Click, read, and stay warm.

1) Designer: Camilla Wellton

2) Fashion grad student: Wolfgang Jarnach

3) Label: Tara St. James’ Study NY

4) New collection: Liza Rietz F/W 09/10, Alexandra Groover S/S 10 and mydearthing Hindset Collection

5) Basic piece: mydearthing Fingerful Warmers

6) Future purchase: Patricia Ayres Artisanal coat

7) Custom made piece: Attila Design dress

8) Package in the mail: 4 pieces of ArtLab perfection

9) Want: ‘Carrot’ style pants

10) Musician: Kelli Scarr

11) Artwork: The Berlin Project

12) Website: Denim Therapy

13) Blog: The door in my wardrobe

14) Post: Interview with Susi Quillinan

15) Personal information: In case you want to know.

16) Future project: Making my own John Galliano, Yohji Yamamoto, or Maison Martin Margiela piece.

17) Most worn pieces: ArtLab Space Odyssey dress, mydearthing Fingerful warmers, and this outfit.

18) Most beautiful coat ever: Any by Kristofer Kongshaug

Wolfgang Jarnach

I love the feeling of being inspired by another human being and/or another human being's work. The other day we went to a movie theatre that is held a couple of nights a week inside our city's renowned stage theatre, The Citadel. Disney's Beauty and the Beast will be the musical at The Citadel next May, and I would so much like to go. Not only because I love the story and have an emotional attachment to it in regards to me and my man, but also because they had on display a few of the costumes used in the play. They are beyond gorgeous. And it made me think. I have toyed with the idea of going to design school here to help along my dreams of starting my own label. But now I'm contemplating going to design school for costume design. Isn't the thought of creating a garment for a very particular character in mind quite interesting? And to think that many people may wear that garment over a few years, but it'll always portray the exact same character to it's viewer? That is just completely opposite of what I think everyday clothing should be, where the wearer mostly gives the clothing life, rather than the clothing dictating who the wearer is. Fascinating.

Anyway, perhaps because of the theatricality of his garments, I am totally drawn to the work of German grad student, Wolfgang Jarnach. According to his website, it appears he has just finished his graduate collection, 'fin de partie', which is "inspired by exponential growth and its crisis resulting from it." In particular, I love this corset and peplum-type skirt.

And Wolfgang's 'mighty aphrodite' collection (S/S 08) is absolute perfection. I could see each of these dresses just as easily on a stage in a ballet as on a confident woman walking down the street (preferably me).

Congratulations, Wolfgang, on completing your grad collection. I, for one, can't wait to see more.

(All photos by Mathis Leicht, 2009)