yohj (JUN VIV) et al.: A/W 13

Well, good thing I had already called it, because both Junya Watanabe's and Vivienne Westwood's shows left something to be desired. Mr. Watanabe went with leather biker jackets in various shapes, and Dame Westwood went with extreme shoulder pads and zombie-ish makeup, leaving me with only a more detailed desire for a trench coat (to go with the boyfriend jeans I already wear every day), i.e. one with zippers (both photos from the Watanabe collection).

So, instead of wasting this post (sorry, Jun and Viv), let's look at the Comme des Garçons collection. Because, I have to say, I'm a fan. I would've liked a less-crowded runway though. It makes the already busy suits look a lot busier.

(Junya Watanabe photos via UK Vogue, CdG photos via Style.com) 

yohj jun VIV: S/S 13

To conclude this season's edition of YOHJ JUN VIV, Madame Westwood once again presented a veritable treasure trove of all things recognizably Westwood. Oddly enough, however, it were the two unexpected pieces below that caught my attention. I think Westwood will be the next label to be seen on Lady Gaga (or a Spice Girl), and I hope that there will be more Westwood lingerie in the works. I've been ridiculously obsessed with finding the perfect wireless lounging bra lately (Under the Root and Norwegian Wood get two thumbs up so far!), and would love a fairytale looking one like this to add to my collection. I would even consider doing my hair like a troll. (Just kidding.)

(Photos via SHOWstudio)

2012: YOHJ JUN VIV (Part 3)

There's always something I like in a Vivienne Westwood show, so I'm not really that disappointed if I don't like everything. There's always a shape or a fabric that triggers a memory, either related to a previous Westwood piece or something completely different. This time around, that tweed fabric reminds me of my man, back when he was in a ska band and liked wearing second-hand suits and a flat cap. It also somehow reminds me of my favorite aunt, who after years of being apart can remind me in two minutes why we get along so well. Thanks, Viv, for coming through once again.

(Photos via Style.com)

Happy New Plaid

So, I realized that my life has quickly become rather good, as my main source of stress this holiday season was how to spend my Christmas money. Normally I have no problem spending money on clothes, but, as I had decided I wanted to replace my shapeless winter coat with something that fit my aesthetic better (or, at least just a little), I felt the need to choose well. After numerous painstaking hours spent away from what is shaping up to be the geekiest book I've read this side of Tolkien (REAMDE by Neal Stephenson), I narrowed down my choices to three coats. One was an eBay listing, which I never ascertained to be true Alexander McQueen, Burton McQueen, or McQ. With such a gamble, and the possibility of steep duties, this one was out of the running first. Which left me with more of a moral dilemma. Because one of the two coats vying for first place was from Canadian designer Natasha Thomas and her Montreal-based label, by THOMAS. You may have seen her gorgeous grey double-lapeled coat grace the front of NJAL and some other blogs, as it (and the collection as a whole) demands maximum attention. In fact, I've been meaning to post that grey coat for ages - it simply got buried in my mountain of bookmarks. At any rate, the coat that I was drawn to was a more subdued (and slightly cheaper) black wool trench/pea coat hybrid (see left). I could easily see myself wearing this piece for all three colder seasons. And, of course, it's right up my alley with it's designed-in-Canada-ness, made-in-Canada-ness, and shipped-from-Canada-ness.

However, and I'm almost embarrassed to say, in the end I was lured away by cheap Vivienne Westwood in a quiet tartan (see right). I've always had this fascination for plaid, but have learnt that I'm too shy to wear it in it's natural bright red form. However, in browns and purples (as the net-a-porter description claims it is), and in Westwood fashion, I'm sold.

Of course, mere hours after I handed over my Christmas money to purchase an extremely non-practical (i.e. only appropriate for Spring weather) coat, not only was the Westwood coat reduced by an additional 20% (meaning it's $80 less than I paid, and almost $500 less than the original price), but I also received a lovely email from Natasha Thomas informing me that I could purchase the by THOMAS coat at 30% off in the online shop with the sale code WINTERSALES. Sigh. Someone, please purchase the by THOMAS coat in my stead. And apologize to Natasha for me. I cannot resist affordable Westwood, especially when it allows me to end my misery and return to the world...of Warcraft.

Vivienne Westwood, S/S 12

Okay, so as not to completely break from tradition, here's the third part of the YOHJ JUN VIV trio. Vivienne Westwood always surprises me by not surprising me, if you know what I mean. She's one of the few designers to have a clear and steady aesthetic (not to mention manifesto) that has followed her through at least the majority of her career. Indeed, you and I both could've picked these out as being Viv's if the photos had fallen from the sky without any captions or return addresses. Having said that, one new thing she introduced for the S/S 12 season is the oversized corset. Brilliant and unexpected, but obviously Westwood. Sigh.

(Photos via UK Vogue)

YOHJ JUN VIV: The Sequel

Five months ago, I wrote a post on my three favorite designers showing at Paris' fashion week. This time around, those are the only three I'm even looking at, seeing as sitting boxed into a corner by numerous leaning towers of, well, boxes, does not really encourage me to kick back and relax for an evening with the Internets. The crazy thing is that I'd really prefer actually moving, even though that would entail even more hours of hard physical labour. Anyway, Yohji Yamamoto's F/W 11 collection didn't strike me as a kindred spirit like last season, which is perhaps largely due to all that mesh and fishnets. However, these hoops skirts made me quietly squeal with delight. Especially the olive green one. Is it odd, however, that my first thought was 'Ooo, bedbugs would have nowhere to hide under those!'? Yeah.

Junya Watanabe's collection had some really gorgeous shapes created with boned waists and flared hips, as well as some great motorcycle jackets. However, Junya used leather like it's going out of style, so those pieces are not pictured here. Upon a second glance (as I needed something to constitute the 'JUN' part), I noticed this sweater was rather interesting. I'm a fan of the twisted closure since adopting my man's complexgeometries stifler/strangler hoodie, though I've never seen it done as a giant looping sleeve. Definitely sounds like a strangler to me.

Which leaves me with my good friend Vivienne Westwood. I could post more photos of her latest collection here, but I've decided to showcase only two pieces so I can get some sleep. First up is this coat. I would want it in another fabric, but, having recently become attached to double breasted coats, I'm quite intrigued by the family tree breasted coat. Or that's what I'm calling this anyway.

And I love this dress. The one on the left. Especially when you see the back of it (beside the tulle robe/curtain on the right). I'd love to wear it to a laundromat with a good book. 

Now, off to move every stick of furniture I own at least 25 centimetres away from the walls.

(Photos via Style.com)

Sharp Shoulders

With my new found love of clean lines and classic looks (have I mentioned that?), the basic piece I've been looking for lately is a fitted jacket. This search may all be for naught, as I've never actually put one on before, and might actually hate it when I do get one on. But before that day arrives, here are the top four jackets on my want-to-try-on list:

1) The asymmetrical unisex Fletwood jacket from Dori Tomcsanyi's perfect S/S 10 collection. Though I of course gravitate towards darker colours, I would make an exception for this piece. I'm also dying to get something from Dori.

2) This Comme des Garçons tailcoat blazer that is up for auction on eBay for approximately 9 more hours. It could possibly be too classy for everyday wear, but for the relatively low price it's going for right now, I'm sure some use could be found for it in my wardrobe.

3) Vivienne Westwood Anglomania Bounty Jacket. Enough said. 

4) This is from Turkish designer Burce Bekrek, as posted by Queen Michelle this morning. Isn't it lovely?

Oh how I'm dreading working evenings this week, now that it's actually normal winter weather again. Sigh.

YOHJ JUN VIV

While I was out - finally recovered and having a good time with drinks with work friends, pizza that didn't give me food poisoning, one of the funniest/dumbest movies I've seen in a long time (Fubar II - it's filmed in my hometown and province), my introduction to Settlers of Catan (not my thing, I'm afraid), and a good looooong sleep - my top 3 big name designers were busy showing their S/S 11 collections in Paris. First up was Yohji Yamamoto, whose collection is quite likely going to be my favorite of the season. While he did go for some psychedelic prints (which I've ignored here) that fit in with the colour, colour, colour theme of many other S/S 11 collections, his main palette of black tugs at my heartstrings. Especially because it's full of long black dresses and skirts that are paired with military boots (...or flip flops). This is my look. Pairing slightly dressier black dress with my extra high Converse monochrome shoes, with leggings when it's colder. Love it.

Then came my good old friend, Vivienne Westwood. This collection, entitled "The Only One" once again had the message of saving the planet with recycled materials and designs. But I'm still left with the question: When will Dame Westwood make vegan bondage or pirate boots?!! Also, I always associated plaid with fall, but either way I don't have enough/any. Has anyone else had the idea of wearing two pairs of pants before? If it's good enough for Viv, it's good enough for me...

And this morning, Paris saw the new offerings of Junya Watanabe, who went for the nautical theme. I'm really not a big fan of horizontal stripes and of nautical anything really (apart from, you know, the ocean). But, while the first photo I saw of Junya's sheer trench coat had me intrigued, by the end of the collection I feel like I need a sheer trench coat. If I muster enough courage to go into IF again (if I go back to NY in February), I think I'll need to try one on.

(All photos via Style.com)