Chromat, A/W 13

I know I just sound like a broken record by this point, but our friend Becca has continued on the tradition of creating ridiculously amazing Chromat collections with SUPERSTRUCTURES, Chromat's A/W 13 collection that was inspired by math (as Charlie would say, we all use math, everyday). How does she do it? Especially whilst creating pieces for little events like the Super Bowl half-time show? Seriously. And I knew I really liked the piece up at the top from the presentation photos, but I never realized how it worked exactly. And this half skirt would find a good home in my wardrobe...

Becca, you've got it going on

Dude. Becca has, once again, hit it out of the park with the S/S 13 Chromat collection. The past few weeks, I've been obsessed with finding bras I can actually wear for hours of non-stop Latin translating fun (i.e. wires and ill-fitting lingerie are not a Classicist's friend), and I think I'll have to include a(nother) Chromat swim top in my curation. As Catullus says, nec miser vive! I'm sure he'd also say 'get this bathingsuit' to Lesbia, however you would say that in Latin (my English-to-Latin is a bit rusty).

Matchpoint

 

As I've already seen this in a couple different places (and in a couple different languages), chances are that some of you have already seen MATCHBOOK, a brilliant blog whose raison d'être is to show us which swimwear matches which book covers. A few of my favorite books have already been matched up (Infinite Jest and Eating Animals, as seen below), but, most importantly, my favorite swimsuit (by Chromat, of course) has been matched with a book that I should have already read. I'm fairly certain that a swimsuit has never before inspired me to read any particular book, and so, hat's off to you, MATCHBOOK!

  

Anyway, inspired by MATCHBOOK, and in memoriam to one of my favorite authors, Maeve Binchy, here's kOs' contribution to the matching game. I've picked four (more or less) matching Alexander McQueen looks, representing the number of times my copy of Evening Class has been read. Maeve, you will be missed.

(Runway photos via Style.com; from right to left: Alexander McQueen Spring 2009, Fall 2007, Spring 2008, and Spring 2010)

Dark Cross

The theme of this summer seems to be thunderstorms, bringing to my attention the fact that I had never considered what a good thunderstorm outfit would be. The clothing has to be breezy, as it'll be hot and muggy. It can't be too voluminous, as more wet material equals more sogginess and slower walking home. It has to be waterproof, and yet not made of something that would stick to you (since it'll be hot and muggy). It has to be a colour that won't stain from running makeup/sweat/colour from bag or other layers, a colour that makes you visible to cars when daytime suddenly turns dark, and a colour that doesn't make you look like you're in a wet t-shirt contest. It can't have any pockets that would contain disintegratable things. The shoes can't be flip flops in a serious downpour, they can't be something that will get wrecked from walking through river-like conditions, and they can't involve socks. The bag has to be waterproof, completely sealable in the event you have an electronics or a book you actually want to read/keep, and able to open immediately to get your keys out.

In other words: stay where you are and wait it out, always wear a Chromat suit (see video below for details), (and/)or take off your clothes.

In My Mind

Before I get to what has been occupying my mind for the last week and a half, let me first say this: chromat now has swimwear in stock and available to order from the chromat online shop! How can I not get a bathing suit with a hood? It's pretty much a match made in heaven (and not just because it's named the 'habit suit'). I'm also loving the back coverage for the top - quite unexpected for a bikini top, and would shield at least the trunk portion of my tattoo (...it's a tree). I'm not ashamed to say that I will likely wear this as a bra as well. Would go well with the TwinSyndrome bathingsuit bottoms I have been known to wear as underwear. Becca - genius!

Anyway, for the last week and a half, I've been aggravating my tennis elbow by constantly hitting refresh on Amanda (F'ing) Palmer's Kickstarter page. If you haven't heard all the hullaballoo on the Internets about AFP's brilliant success in raising enough money to produce and tour her upcoming album from her very own fans, I suggest you start by going to her Kickstarter page, and then perhaps Googling 'Amanda Palmer Kickstarter'. And if you're not familiar with Amanda Palmer, let me start by saying that I wasn't really either. In fact, I didn't bother trying to become familiar with her before, because: a) her eyebrows, or lack thereof, scare me (I've very particular about eyebrows); b) I can't relate to her brazenness (I have trouble being myself at work); and, most importantly, c) I'm jealous she gets to hear Neil Gaiman's voice whenever she wants. I honestly can't even say I had heard any music from her (and/or the Dresden Dolls) until I watched her Kickstarter video. Which was when I realized that she's really quite good at what she does and is to be admired for leaving her label (for very good reasons - Google that too) and for giving her very loyal fans a chance to be (even more) involved with her work. Without waxing noneloquently about the evils of the big music industry, etc., let's just say I backed Amanda's project (when it had reached about 4X what the goal was and only a few thousand backers) because I could get behind the idea of it, and now (when it has reached over 6X what the goal was and over 11,500 backers) I'm very much looking forward to seeing her in Brooklyn and hearing what I expect to be great music. I wonder if she could've predicted gaining a crapload of new fans because she asked for money...

Anyway, this Violitionist session was posted in the deluge of tweets* surrounding Amanda's Kickstarter. I think it's a very darling song, and Neil Gaiman as puppeteer amuses me to no end.

*P.S. An added bonus about said deluge of tweets was that I learned from a tweet/retweet of AFP that Five Iron Frenzy is alive again! Sad I missed that Kickstarter campaign - my wallet opens freely for those who hand me a big heap of nostalgia in exchange!

Mickey or bust!

Even though I actually prefer to be as unrestricted as possible (and it's okay, as I'm fairly small), I seem to be gravitating towards more restrictive bra-tops lately. The first one that caught my eye was the one above by Montreal-based designer Genevieve Savard. Not that the silk cups would be that restrictive per se, but the hardware, thick straps, and thick elastic at least give that impression on first glance. 

The second piece that caught my eye was from the chromat A/W 12 collection, inspired in part by Disney (obviously). When I was younger I had a thing for bathing suits with half-zippers at the top, and it appears as though a bit of that obsession lingers on. I'd have to ask Becca if the thick black stuff was actually all elastic or something else though. I imagine too much elastic could be too much of a good thing. Anyway, in case you're wondering why I hadn't featured the new chromat collection earlier, it's simply because I think I'm too serious/practical/non-colour-obsessed for the majority of the collection. And I always preferred Mickey over Minnie. I do love the two pieces below, however (why did bustles ever go out of style?!). Becca, don't ever stop smiling.

Where are they now?

I've been sorely neglecting my duties of keeping you updated on ol' kOs favorites, so I thought I'd combine three such updates into one neat package. First up is fashion grad Stacey Grant. We last visited her over a year ago while she was studying for her MA at Kingston University. Well, Stacey graduated and has just accepted a position as a lecturer for Fashion Design at the University of Wales. Congratulations, Stacey! This is good news both for her and for future designers. Oh, how I still want this dress of Stacey's...

Second up is Becca McCharen's Chromat. It's only been a couple of months since we last saw the cagey aesthetic of this NY-based label, but the S/S 12 collection lookbook has been out for a couple of weeks already, and it's time you see it. While the A/W 11 collection was comprised primarily of accessories, S/S 12 features stand-alone pieces of clothing that you can go out to brunch with your parents in, while still getting that blatant look of disapproval from anyone over sixty (go to the Chromat Facebook to see more). What I'm loving most from the collection though is Chromat's first foray into swimwear. That is how a bikini should be done, as far as I'm concerned.

And last up is Inbar Spector. We last saw Inbar in about 1859, or thereabouts, when she graciously answered some of my questions. Well, as you may have seen posted by Queen Michelle, Inbar has finally put out another collection, which was just shown at last week's Vauxhall Fashion Scout portion of LFW. At first I thought that the collection was a huge departure from her previous work, but after seeing the entire collection on Inbar's (updated) website, I can see that she's simply added even more intricacies into her aesthetic by upping the opulent factor, and has thus even moreso honed her talent for creating couture. Make sure you double click to see the gorgeous details, and go to Inbar's site to watch the runway video. I'd definitely wear that seafoam swan-ish dress (seafoam!), and it goes without saying that I can still see Björk wearing every single piece of Inbar's. Sigh.

Ladies, I'm so proud.

Chromat, A/W 11

There were two events I received invitations for that I was very sad to miss as a result of going to NY after Fashion Week. The first was the InAisce F/W 11/12 presentation, which occurred the very same night that I was enjoying my much needed fix of folk metal. My inability to attend was partly made up by my ability to attend the InAisce sample sale the weekend I was in NY. Well, maybe 'ability' is too strong of a word, as the long trek from the Metropolitan Museum of Art down to Chrystie St. (followed by a trek back to Brooklyn, then back to Manhattan, and then back to Brooklyn to meet the lovely Patricia Ayres) pretty much did my foot in for the remainder of the week, meaning I did not do much exploring this time around in NY. Sigh. I was however rewarded with a most excellent InAisce jacket for only $90, which I'm sure will make an appearance in an upcoming post or two.

The second event I had to miss was a party put on in honour of Chromat, where Becca McCharen debuted her A/W 11 collection. For those of you that have met me, you know I'm not a big party goer, but Becca is one of the sweetest people I've ever met, and her smile is so infectious that I know I would've had a great time. Good thing that she didn't wait too long to post lookbook photos of the new collection, entitled 'Blood Sport'. I really love the mood of the photoshoot and the inspirations behind the collection, being "the royalty, athleticism and dark sexuality of Olympic athletes." I have long been a loyal fan of the Summer Olympics as I have had dreams of being a professional sprinter since my elementary school track and field days, but I've never seen the various sports quite like this. Indeed, I think this is the strongest Chromat collection thus far, especially as it contains both the show-stopping avant garde cage pieces I've come to expect from Becca (such as the perfect halo collar, shown above, and the cycling pannier skirt, shown below), as well as more wearable pieces for the more conservative dresser, such as the lifter sleeves (above), warm-up collar (vest-like piece above), shinguard cages (a perfect accessory for boring leggings!), and the cleat cages (a.k.a. sexy spats, seen below). I'm also a huge fan of the rings shoulders (below), which would look stunning over a simple black dress or a long strapless gown. Becca, I'm awarding you the gold medal for this collection!

(Photography by Gemma Fleming)

Interview with Becca McCharen of Chromat

One of the things I love about New York is the people. And, perhaps especially during Fashion Week, it's rather amazing to have such incredible style walking all around you. So it wasn't too surprising that I met an extremely friendly (and brand new) New Yorker that had incredible style. It was, however, surprising that I met this person in the darkest of dark basements, surrounded by people who feel more comfortable talking from behind a keyboard (of the QWERTY persuasion) than in person. Also, our initial conversation was sparked by things we were wearing, mine being an Artlab harness, and hers being a design of her own making that I had recognized from the Internets. Turns out, a blog post I had read by Queen Michelle unknowingly put me in the path of Becca McCharen, designer for the label Chromat. While we both eagerly awaited Susie Bubble's appearance on stage, Becca handed over a couple of her previous Chromat lookbooks/zines, and I immediately wanted to take out a pen and grill her on her fantastic designs. But instead, I enjoyed our brief (and very dimly lit) encounter and followed up online with the following interview, as well as some brand new photos of the Chromat S/S 11 collection. Enjoy. 

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What is your background in design?

I studied architecture design at the University of Virginia School of Architecture. What I learned in architecture school that I have since applied to fashion is definitely the process and rigor of design. Architecture school was very process-oriented. We did a lot of research about the context of a building before we designed it. We made many iterations of a single idea and then we edited them. And that is exactly what I do with when I am designing clothing.  

While I was going to school I also worked in the costume shop for the Drama Department, where I learned how to sew while making big Victorian bustles and corsets and crinolines. 

What is your first fashion memory?

My mother used to sew (from store-bought patterns) matching outfits for me and my little brother when we were young. One Easter when I was about 9, she sewed a floral jumper dress with a white lacy pinafore for me, a matching miniature version for my doll, a matching bow tie for my brother and a hilarious 80's teal and white dress for herself. So I guess you could say I get it from her! Although it wasn't until college that I learned how to sew.

I know this one since I met you wearing your cage bra, but do you wear your own designs?

Oh yeah, all the time! Chromat samples and backstock are currently threatening to completely take over my wardrobe. It's fun to wear my own stuff out, and lately people have started recognizing them before they know I made it (like me)! That is a fun and surreal experience.

What is your favorite experience as a designer thus far?

Easily the fashion shows. It is so exciting to finally present a project after having worked on it for six or so months. To see 25 girls all wearing clothes I designed all together at once is like being in my own fully realized dreamworld. And hearing feedback from the audience and feeling the excitement is such an exhilarating experience. 

In the past I have organized fashion shows with friends, so the shows end up being a big party and celebration of all the hard work from everybody - the hair and makeup, the DJ, the other designers and models too. I love collaborating with other artists and doing fashion projects. It's so fun to join forces and create events and environments and images that are bigger than anything I could come up with myself.

A close second is the feeling of actually being inspired and sewing and draping for hours without looking up from the table. I love going into that creative zone where time stops. I just wish I could do it more often.

What is the inspiration behind your S/S 11 collection?

The Chromat spring/summer 2011 cage collection was inspired by samurai warrior armor, folded origami cranes and gridded shoji screens found in traditional Japanese environments. I looked at the rhythm of lines in the shoji screens and the sharp silhouettes created by the folding of hard paper for the structural cages this season. I wanted to do something very simple and controlled as well - in black and white. And of course a constant inspiration for me is architectural scaffolding. Developing new techniques to apply exterior structural scaffolding to the surface of the human body is something I am always thinking of. 

What is your favorite piece from your S/S 11 collection?

I think the weirdest thing I made this season - and therefore my favorite - are the leg cages on the corset crane pants with the two way zipper (below left). The wearer can actually zip her legs together down the knee. It looks pretty awesome and it feels like you're wearing a tight fishtail dress. 

And then there are the more simple pieces I will probably end up wearing the most: the bamboo belt (below right) and the shoji necklace.

Do you listen to music while you work, and who/what band inspires you the most?

Yes, always! Working and sewing and draping is mainly a solitary practice for me, so I'm always listening to music or podcasts to keep myself entertained. While designing the most recent collection, I listened to a lot of Maluca, Crystal Castles, new M.I.A., Major Lazer and La Roux. Lots of fast, happy beats.

Who would you most like to design an outfit for?

I'm very inspired by the fashion game of some of my musical heros like Bjork, M.I.A., Karen O of the Yeah Yeah Yeahs and Lady Gaga. When I am making clothes, I usually design with them in mind - that encourages me to make crazy bold strange garments and not worry about wearability at the outset. 

What do you picture a Chromat wearer doing while wearing one of your pieces?

Going to fabulous crazy parties and tearing it up on the dance floor!

You just recently moved from Virginia to New York. Does being from Virginia influence your style at all? What is your favorite part of living in New York?

I think living in Virginia definitely influenced the first collection I did for Chromat in 2008. I had just moved back to Virginia from living all different places around the world and I was fascinated by what I perceived as sort of an indigenous uniform of southern American redneck street style. I used lots of denim, camo, biker leather, and plaid flannel but cut it into more modern shapes for younger, more creative wearers. Since then I think my designs for Chromat have evolved and become more about formal concepts that change from season to season. 

I love living in NYC now! I can walk 4 blocks from my studio and pick up materials instead of having to order things like zippers online and wait a week until they were delivered! Living in NYC has also given me the great opportunity to actually meet in person all the people who are buying and wearing Chromat. That is so great. 

You work together with Emily Kappes on Chromat. What role do each of you have in the label?

Emily and I have been collaborating on fashion, art and architecture since 2006. She works full time for Allied Works Architecture - a super hip architecture firm in Portland, Oregon right now and may soon also be relocating to NYC. She does all the screenprinting for the prints we have incorporated into past collections, but her main role is of conceptual collaborator. I do most of the design and production, but I go to her for her opinion on everything. 

What's up next for you and for Chromat?

Chromat fall/autumn 2011! I am hoping to weave the structural techniques employed in spring/summer 2011 into garments that actually keep you warm for the winter! I think it will look like a mash up of cages and soft warm things. 

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I'm sure it goes without saying that I ♥ NY and Chromat. Click on the following links to see more of Becca and Chromat: main website, blog, Etsy, Facebook. Thank goodness for the Internets.

Oh! And if you're in NY, make sure you visit Virginia at International Playground for your own Chromat piece.