Without any new (real) Alexander McQueen to look forward to and Inbar Spector being on a bit of break enjoying being a new mother, I thought my sources for haute couture had been depleted. But thankfully I was wrong, as Yiqing Yin has unknowingly volunteered herself for the role with her F/W 13/14 couture collection, just shown in Paris. Phewf. Interestingly, though I immediately gravitate to pieces that belong on Björk (i.e. the first one), I'm particularly drawn to the last one. And I think my man knows why more than I do myself. For, though agreeing with me on the Björk-ness of the first dress and the Oscar-ness of the third, he said that the last one looked like a Japanese cherry blossom tree painting. So much better than my description ('it looks like bandages'). Anyone interested in a 'Mr. Buffy Leigh's Fashion Impressions' feature?
My brain works very very strangely. More often than not, I forget things I had read just the day before, or even important things in favorite books that I've read more than once. Heck, I've even forgotten about a whole character in a favorite TV show, as if my brain had spliced him out of the numerous scenes he was in. But this morning, to cheer me up out of a pulled neck muscle, my man showed me a new photo of Björk (at Bonnaroo), and immediately I knew who had made her headpiece. Which I had seen for a split second a week or more ago while scrolling through Fashion156's Collections page. Strange. Anyway, as confirmed by Maiko's tumblr, the piece comes from the MA (in millinery at the Royal College of Art) grad collection of Maiko Takeda, whose BA (from CSM) collection I could've sworn I had posted about before, but I must've just oogled Han-style over and over. So, here it is (well, a few images from it), for realz this time:
Brilliant, isn't it? Of course, these pieces would've lost their shadowy dimension here the last few cloudy weeks, but fun could be had with flashlights at least. Anyway, with Björk on board, methinks Maiko is in for quite a ride. Now, does anyone know who did that dress? (Edit: The dress is by Dutch designer Iris van Herpen, from her Micro collection. Thanks, Dust!)
P.S. You know I'm lagging on blog reading when one of the blogs I link to wrote about this already a few days ago! See Susie Bubble's post for full coverage on Maiko's grad collection.
The plum colour Minna Palmqvist uses for her A/W 13 collection is one of my favorite colours ever. I am generally not a purple kind of person, but somehow my prom dress, my fanciest non-wedding dress, my often-worn mandula dress, and a lovely custom mydearthing dress are all this colour, give or take a shade. Perhaps it's time to add another...Anyway, Minna suggests you listen to Björk's "Mutual Core" while watching the video presentation of the collection (from 0:06 on). With or without a soundtrack, I love what I see. I'll definitely be checking into Minna's e-shop in a few months to see if I can get myself another plum fix.
Entirely unrelated, if you like Neil Gaiman, Stephen Colbert, and Leonard Nimoy (a.k.a three of my favorite people), AND if you're not one of those people who hate short stories, you may want to click here (and listen to the January 27th show). Live long, and prosper.
Edit: Unrelated again, Blogger tells me that this is my 1100th post here on kOs. Crazy!
If Björk's next album is inspired by geometry or origami (or crystal...line), I would point her in the direction of Croatian designer Morana Kranjec (found via NOTCOUTURE) for that tour. I think that Morana's work is absolutely fantastic and I would jump quite high (scissor style) to wear that dress, but these 'fabric sculptures' should be up on display with a full light treatment to see all the resulting shadows and whatnot. Not to mention being worn by someone who gives all-vowel acceptance speeches.
I'm always annoyed when I see Björk and her swan dress on the worst-dressed-in-Oscar-history lists. Without launching into some sort of uncomfortable defense for animal-themed clothing, let's just say bizarre and different does not necessarily equal bad. Anyway, I'm sure Björk wouldn't be on such lists if she had been wearing this less-swan-ish dress by Sylvio Giardina (above left). However, Björk would never be expected to wear the same thing twice, even if the second time is actually just something similar and not the same. And so, for Björk's next Oscar performance, I would definitely suggest someone introduce her to Eleanor Amoroso, particularly Eleanor's A/W 12/13 collection (see above right). And my apologies if none of that makes sense. I'm not entirely sure being stuck in a tiny apartment for a week and a half with a humidifier as a best friend and all meals being served in a bowl is what you would call 'healthy'.
While we're on the topic of my personal fashion icons, let me direct your attention to the indomitable Björk in McQueen. For those of you lucky enough to go to the Savage Beauty exhibit, this custom dress is of course a tweaked version of the S/S 2001 dress made out of lab slides that greeted you at the exhibit entrance, as seen above. I, in fact, was threatened to be thrown out of the exhibit (the second time I went) when I attempted to take a photo of it and it's counterpart. Me, a polite little Canadian. Gee whiz.
(Photo via Alexander McQueen Facebook, by SølveSundsbø)
I've tried to contain my excitement on here in regards to Björk's upcoming album. But I know you've all wondered what would happen if Björk's music was played on the moon, and since I recently acquired that knowledge (via Pitchfork), I can only share it with you.
Well, I just went and made myself feel silly. I'm supposed to be kitty-sitting right now, but I still needed a few hours to myself to fully recuperate from yesterday. And so, leaving the kitty in my man's capable hands, I decided to dress myself up and go to the farmer's market and to the bookstore to pick up the new issue of POP was out and wanted to get that. However, I had forgotten who was on the cover of this issue, and thus I recoiled slightly at the sight of it. Not that I have anything against the cover person (being a certain Ms. Spears), I just never thought I'd see the day when I'd buy a magazine (or anything, for that matter) with her on it. Sigh. The level of silliness was perhaps increased by the fact that I picked up a second magazine, being AnOther, simply because it has Björk on the cover (and because I'm a sucker for publications with nice heavy paper). If I had been the cashier that checked me out, I'm pretty sure my head would've exploded from seeing these two covers together.
At any rate, at least I found a new favorite fall outfit for this excursion. Or I should say fall/winter outfit. You can practically see snow in the air, it just has to find the courage to materialize and show up on the ground. So, said outfit was my ArtLab jacket (layered over my marriage day hoodie), my (burgundy) Mandula dress (layered over a tee) worn as a top with the bottom tie as an empire waistline, my Wolfgang Jarnach pants (which have the most unique and expertly crafted seams that I have ever seen on a pair of pants - see below), and, of course, my trusty monochrome Chucks. I really think I did the whole New York trip wrong. I should've known that I thrive in colder weather that not only allows for but requires tons of layers. Next time.
And on a related note (related in my head anyway, as my Wolfgang Jarnach pants remind me of another pair of skinny-ish navy pants I used to wear...), it's been a whole decade since meeting my man and since first hearing AFI (my man being responsible for the latter, pretty much as soon as I had met him). So here's a video from the first AFI show I ever attended, which changed my world as I knew it.
The show was in March by the way, and not close to Halloween, as you might think from the jack-o'-lanterns. Just like you might think my deck is where pumpkins go to die. Methinks we carved them a wee bit too early this year, though the frost/snow goblins would've gotten them in the end anyway. Sigh.
I always find that the world makes sense again when a previously unknown reason for me instantly liking an entire collection is completely explained. I had bookmarked a NJAL page named 'GNOUYYCULYKS' quite a while ago, as I was intrigued by the organic shapes and textures of the sole collection posted on it, as well as the fact that the pieces make up a Copenhagen fashion graduate's collection, featuring fabrics woven by the student's mother. However, as all the photos had watermarks on them, I decided to leave posting them to another day.
Good thing for those watermarks though, as they provided me with the most important piece of the puzzle: the designer's name. Armed with this, Google, and Facebook, here is what I discovered. Sky Lucy Young is a 21-year-old half-Danish, half-British graduate of the Fashion Design Academy in Copenhagen. As mentioned above, her graduate collection involved a collaboration with Marianne Just, Sky's mother, who wove three of the materials (designed by Sky) used in the seven pieces. These custom materials consist of two fabrics based on the typical Swedish rag rug, thus having an unexpected texture and colour, as well as a material with a silk base that has thick linen yarn hanging, which is inspired by the ancient New Zealand tribes' use of palm tree leaves as a waterproof layer over their clothing. Make sure you click on each of the photos and zoom in to see the incredible detailing of the fabric and these pieces. And see if you can pick out what made everything make sense in Sky's description of her designated S/S 10 collection, entitled 'Off the Wall' (hint, I've highlighted the key words in bold):
The OFF THE WALL collection is dedicated to having fun in Spring 2010. The inspiration is based on different aspects of the creative world. This includes artists such as Tal R and Isabel Berglund as well as the artists behind Yes We Can Can. The inspiration for the collection also includes the innovative ideas behind a new approach to graphic design made visually through handmade craftsmanship, physical experiences, visual environments and staged spatial installations such as interiors, architecture and art installations as well as urban interventions. With innovation also being a theme for this collection, the avant-garde singer-songwriter Björk is an essential. She is an artist within the world of music and performance, but her image also plays an essential role. Her eccentric costumes, performances and images emphasise an inspiring icon. These inspirational artists and objects all have something in common: they are highly professional, creative, but express more joy in their art than seriousness - the key to this collection.
As the key words to this collection are fun and innovative, so are the women that this collection is dedicated to. It is all about having fun in life and getting the most of it. The collection, inspired by different aspects of the creative world as well as having Björk as a muse, is something out of the ordinary, more like a piece of art, even though the styles can be used casually as well as for going out. The clothes suit a big city lifestyle where socializing, art exhibitions and fashion are part of everyday life. It craves individuals who do not fear to stand out from the rest. The shape used in the collection is originally based on the cover of Björk's Voltaic cd that together with an oversize effect creates an exciting outcome. This collection is simply dedicated to those who wish to be OFF THE WALL.
Yes, I'm quite predictable. Just throw in Björk'sname, and I'm an instant fan. Then throw in utterly amazing designs and a friendly designer, and I'm a fan for life. Sky currently lives in London, where she is an intern at Preen by Thorton and Bregazzi. Armed with such experience and the obvious natural talent, I'm expecting quite wonderful things from this young lady!
Uh oh. Is it cheating if I'm just looking? Tipped off by Her Highness, Queen Michelle, I just clued in to the wonder that is E-Label. Honestly, all I had to hear was that they work extensively with jersey and are based in Reykjavik to make me an instant fan. But then I saw the hoodies. I'm in trouble. Perhaps if I get the pullover one instead of a zipped one, The Hoody won't be jealous. Here's hoping.
If you also have a jersey and hoody addiction, you may want to stay clear of their well-designed and incredibly interesting website. But if you don't want to heed my words, click here. I will continue to figure out the exchange rate from Icelandic Kronurs to Canadian dollars while I enjoy my birthday apple pie and iced coffee with milk, courtesy of my lovely parents. Perhaps listening to Sigur Rós and Björk some more will unlock the secrets of foreign currency...
edit: Oops! Seems I was looking at the Iceland-only version of the website. Click here for the worldwide friendly version, where you only have to convert from pounds to your currency. Phewf! Pieces available also slightly differ between websites (the two on the right are available only on the Iceland site).
Well, this is turning out to be the best day so far this lonely week. I got my copy of Björk's Voltaic in hand, the live DVD of which I cannot wait to watch tonight after work. I'm sure it'll bring me back to that magical night I saw her during the Volta tour's stop in Vancouver...I also got my very first MJ album, Thriller of course. Sure I'm a bit late, but I really didn't appreciate 80s music until the last couple of years anyway.
I also received my long-awaited Peekoo Pinafore Tank from hier apparel. Laura's work is always beyond fantastic, with such soft jersey fabrics and this wonderful organic sense to them. You'd have to wear one of her pieces to know what I mean. Perhaps my Letters to Paris won't be fulfilling it's 3-day rotation...
And I'm dreaming of all things Quillinan...I wonder how long it would take to memorize all the words used in the Secret neck piece...
Ooo, and I hear an exciting piece will be appearing no longer only in my dreams, but in the Norwegian Wood shop very soon. Sigh.
Wow, I hope the August curator for The Shop down at NJAL takes note of this designer. And, somebody, contact Björk. I think she'd like these (as would I). My eyes are so wide right now.
Okay girls, either no one is listening to me because no one is reading this (besides my 3 lovely followers, Bonzie, Tiina, and Lindsay), or because no one believes me. But I implore you, you must take this advice if at all possible: Buy yourself some ArtLabIndustrial Couture, a.k.a. a Charlie Chaplin Couture Bib as quickly as humanly possible!!!
I just received mine today in a gigantic box and I couldn't be happier if I tried. I already knew from my ArtLab tee and bustle that Patricia's work is inspired and impeccable. But this piece. This piece looks just as good on me as on the gorgeous model. As I said in the feedback I left, "I don't believe you have to be a certain type of girl to wear this couture bib - with one piece of elastic and one metal snap, it instantly transforms you into the girl who can and will pull it off."Personally, I feel like I'm channeling Björk when I have this on.
I honestly bought this piece assuming that I may likely never wear it. Because, in truth, I am a beauty collector, if you will. I love to splurge every once in a while on items that I might not necessarily use as intended. I'm happy just to own said piece and be able to look at it in person whenever I'd like. Hence my collection of unworn clothes. Having said that, I will definitely wear my couture bib as soon as the opportunity arises. If I had not already had two weddings, I would wear this as part of an avant garde 2-piece wedding dress, not dissimilar to Patricia's pairing of the bib with her new hoop skirt, as seen above. Sigh. If only I could have another one of these in black...
I stumbled upon seedknits' Björk and eco friendly 'Diamond Heart Crochet Dress', which instantly reminded me of tiinateaspoon's (also Björk and eco friendly) 'Paper-doll dress', which I've been oogling since day 1. The two shots of these startling gorgeous dresses are nearly the same poses, don't you think?!! Must be the recycled-materials-couture-dress pose. Ahhh, I love perusing my fave Etsy sellers' faves - I find so many delightful sellers and pieces that I wouldn't have seen otherwise...
Which reminds me, I still have to finish making my 2nd version of Tiina's Mustikka dress. I bought the lovely PDF pattern last July and made my first try with much too heavy upholstery fabric (it's now a very very heavy but delightful bustle skirt). Now I still have at least half way to go on the second/final version, made this time of bedsheets. Oh the life of a procrastinator...
This is the archive of kOs, where you'll find all of the old kOs posts in their original habitat. Any new posts as of August 2013 are now at musingsofbuffyleigh.wordpress.com and on Twitter @buffyleigh. See you there!
Most of these photos are not my own. Unless specifically stated, the pictures posted are used only for my personal commentary and not for commercial reasons. I do not get compensated for blogging about these photos and the pieces contained within - I simply want to share the viewing experience with you. And my wearing experience, in the very likely event that I give in to temptation and buy them for myself.