tenuis sub artus flamma demanat

In hindsight, getting stuck at home was probably the best thing for me. I got two full days of solid translating done (Horace, I'm going to win this round), catching me up (almost) to where I should've been pre-reacting-to-every-chemical-ever. And, after having one more day off tomorrow, I should be in a good position with the first paper I've had to write in 5 years. Phewf! I feel very much like this gorgeous photo (via here) from Amanda deLeon's S/S 13 presentation at NOLAFW. Let's just see if I can stay on my toes for one more month...

Deconstruction in silk and red

Two days ago we had the first snow of the winter (yes, winter comes early here), and the ground is carpeted with green leaves that didn't even have a chance to change colour yet. Funnily enough, I don't even mind that much this time around (at least not yet), as I'm not relying on the outside-of-work world to pick up my spirits (like in the previous 5-ish fall-winter changeovers). Even so, the pre-mature death of a season brought to mind something that I intended on posting when it was still summer (which was not so long ago...). Amanda deLeon's F/W 12 collection, which is now available in her shop, includes one of the most gorgeous dresses I have ever seen, the Silk Cemetery Gown. What truly makes this dress is the print (yes, a print!), which is from a photo of the Greenwood Cemetery in New Orleans. I suspect I'd love this dress even more when styled with the pick-ups that are on the sides, perhaps an ArtLab belt, and some boots (of the Fluevog/Dr. Martens/Chuck variety). Having said that though, the red version would also look great with my red plaid Dr. Martens...

Then, speaking of red, I want Amanda's Red Wool Blazer. And, speaking of blazer, I need to get back to work. Can anyone summarize deconstruction in 1000 words or less for me?*

*Trick question: You can't summarize deconstruction. You can only deconstruct it.

Highly localized: A discussion with Amanda deLeon

For those of you who have been long-time readers of kOs, you may remember a time when a new interview seemed to be posted every month or so. I miss those days. To me, the most fascinating part of fashion is the minds of those behind it all. Knowing the story behind a dress and, more importantly, the story of the person behind the dress somehow makes the dress more magical, more a piece of art and a historical record than just a pretty piece of cloth. And with kOs focusing on younger designers, it's incredibly interesting to watch a designer grow into their own and develop both their craft and a following. New Orleans-based Amanda deLeon is one such designer, who I first met through Etsy and am now watching via photos from various Fashion Week events and online press. Amanda's passion and commitment to her work is immediately evident in even a short email conversation, so I was happy when she agreed to do a follow-up interview to share with you. If you haven't yet, pour yourself a cup of something wonderful, read the first interview here (from over two years ago already!), and then continue to get to know Amanda through her answers below...

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You've moved from selling on Etsy at a lower price point to selling on your own web shop at a higher price point. Do you feel Etsy was a good starting point to get your name out in the online world? Or is Etsy more of a self-contained world that is best for those not looking to create a long-term sustainable label?

At the time I was selling on Etsy, I was trying to begin my transition from producing one-offs to developing a line that could be manufactured in a larger quantity.  I was also using Etsy as a way to fund where I wanted my brand to go.  It helped me to afford luxury fabrics and begin my relationship with a production pattern maker.  Those two things alone are huge investments.  I knew that Etsy wasn't the correct venue for my brand, but it was a starting point.  It forced me to ask myself questions that I wouldn't have if I had started with my personal online shop.  

I was having to cut my prices so low, to compete with the other sellers, that I was practically paying people to take my pieces.  It seems that with Etsy's efforts to create a world for artisans and crafters to sell there goods to a larger market, they have involuntarily created an indie sweat shop.  It is also a breeding ground for copycats and price cutting wars.  I also feel that Etsy forces you to have a certain aesthetic.  It is not a venue for high end products, for sure.

My new interest is Kickstarter, and I've noticed some designers using it to either start new labels or fund future collections (such as George Bezhanishvili's 'Reasonable Luxury' project). What are your thoughts on using Kickstarter to fund your own label, what goal would you want to set, and what would you offer your backers?

Kickstarter is an avenue that I am in the midst of exploring.  I'm just trying to figure out how I need to approach it.  I want to have a hardcore game plan on how I would use the money.  I wouldn't want to get overzealous and spend on frivolous unnecessities.  Every cent will count.  I would like to offer backers something worthwhile.  I expect that I would give pieces from my collection to larger donations, but I would also like to offer something interesting and special for smaller donations.

Still on the thread of Kickstarter: Amanda Palmer raised over $1 million with her Kickstarter. After receiving countless questions/comments on where the money was going, she posted a breakdown of how the funds would be used to show that she wasn't walking away rich from the whole thing. Could you give us a breakdown on why the price of that gorgeous Aqua Sack Dress is $1280? After designing a high-end piece, do you ever consider creating a more affordable version to offer as well?

1 million dollars!!!  That's amazing to see that there are so many supporters that are willing to give to see others succeed!   

As for the retail value of my Aqua Sack Dress, there are so many elements that I have to consider in my pricing.  I use premium fabric, and that in itself comes at a premium price.  In the case of this particular dress, there is a lot of yardage of silk used.  I also produce my pieces locally, here in New Orleans.  Labor is the most expensive calculating factor, but it is extremely important to me to manufacture locally and to pay a fair wage.  Sewing is a dying skill and deserves to be revived in a healthy way.  My goal is to not only sell my pieces, but to help the growth of local manufacturing and create jobs.  The manufacturer that I have been working with has quality sewers and are paid a quality wage.  It's not only very important to me to produce locally, but it is also imperative that I work with a manufacturer that understands the importance of their workers and work environment.  Production patterns are also a huge expense, but well worth the cost because fit can make or break your brand.  All of these pieces would not exist if I didn't have good equipment and tools.  This equipment also needs TLC...regular cleaning, maintenance, and repair.  Now, the list gets to more of the behind the scenes expenses. I'll just list them below with notes.

• So, now we have fabric yardage, labor, patterns, equipment and tools.
• Photography - To create a look book, it takes hours of time setting up lights, background, etc.  It also takes several hours to shoot.  But, what takes the most time and energy is the days of editing.  I am lucky that my husband has helped me with photographing my look books, but he pays a big price for that service.  Hours of setting up, shooting, editing, filing, all on the dime of his equipment and technology that isn't going to pay for itself.
• Model, makeup, hair - I need all of these to create a legitimate look book, and if you don't have good ones, it can reflect poorly on your brand.  I work out a trade, for one of my pieces, if I don't have the cash to pay them for the session.  However, that traded piece costs me money.  And people cannot pay their bills with a dress.
• Sample fabric yardage - If you want to design a piece out of a certain fabric, you have to by a certain amount of sample yardage (depending on what company that you are ordering from).  Then you have to test that fabric for shrinkage, bleeding, and overall quality.  You may not even use that fabric, depending on the quality after testing.
• Sales Rep - The sales rep needs to be paid a certain percentage for their time spent selling.
• Marketing - Traditional and web.
• Small stuff that no one thinks about - Studio rent, electricity, internet, insurance.  All of these are needed to run my business.
• And last, but not least, my time, and my creativity.  I know my pieces are expensive, but they are also built with an artful mind and integrity.

I am starting to make some one-offs again.  The price point is significantly smaller because the pieces will be made out of discontinued fabrics and some fabrics I have collected over the years.  Also, the designs are not pieces that I would normally place into a collection.  These pieces will be most likely placed under a different label, but I haven't decided that just yet.

You mentioned that you use local labour to manufacture your pieces. Do you still sew any pieces yourself? Into what part of the whole process do you devote most of your time as a designer?

For now, I still sew most of the garment, but I leave the finishings (hemming, buttons, etc.) for the manufacturer.  I do, however rely on them when orders are too much for me to handle on my own.  But, I really enjoy my time at the machine.  It's very therapeutic.  I spend lots of time developing my initial patterns to send off to my production pattern maker.  It is important to have a professional pattern maker edit any issues that arise from my errors.  It is also important to have a pattern that is able to be read by anyone that is a sewer.  It's like blueprints, everyone on site needs to know how to build it.  Also, much of my time is spent researching ways of getting my name in front of more customers.

If you could change one thing about the fashion industry, what would it be?

I feel that there is lack of education on the dirty underbelly of the fashion industry.  It's not all about outsourcing to get a cheaper made product...That's not what burns me up.  Everyone, no matter what country they live in, deserves to have a job that pays a fair wage.  The real problem is that when you are getting your products for cheap, someone is paying the price for it.  Whether it be that manufacturers have to close down their factories because of lack of cash flow from having to repeatedly put in low bids for jobs, or that manufacturers are paying their employees an unethical rate.  Everyone has to be able to afford to live.  

People that have the money, are the ones with the power to turn the industry around by supporting sustainable businesses, but they are just not educated about it.  It's just a shame that the ones that respect and adore the art of fashion are usually the ones that don't have the money to support it.

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To keep up to speed on Amanda's goings on, 'like' her Facebook, follow her blog, and check out her website. While her Etsy shop has now been closed, remember that Amanda's online shop is up and running!

Suffering from delusions of ungrandeur*

For those of you wondering where Amanda deLeon had gone (I know I was), she has now opened up an online shop! The S/S 12 collection is what is now available, making me wish I had a winning lottery ticket (especially as it is inspired by the ocean and digital communication, naturally). 

Unfortunately, even with the grand opening discount of 10% (enter 'GRANDOPEN' until June 15th), I can't afford to get a new piece from Amanda (e.g. the dress at the top is $1,280). So, for now I will just wonder how she made me like fringed anything (particularly organza-covered fringe!), wonder if her shorts could change my mind (...about shorts), and wish I could change my Amanda deLeon vest (see bottom right) into organza at a wave of a wand (or something), as that tank (above middle) makes the back gills much more wearable (see below). Sigh. Having said that, I need to wear that vest. It's fantastic.

*This is one of my favorite lines from the best album of 2012, mewithoutYou's Ten Stories. I've been wanting to use it all week as a title post, but have had a hard time finding something to post. I should say that I would be the one suffering in this case, as I don't find I'm grand enough to wear that ridiculously gorgeous dress. Curses.

The Deep

The older I get, the more aware I am of how stress physically affects me. Thankfully, I am also more aware of what I need to do to relax. Hence my spur of the moment appointment in 2.5 hours with the beekeeper, and this video (via Coilhouse).

Also, the older I get, the more I appreciate great deals, though I tend to feel rather guilty when it means I'm paying a designer much less than they deserve. I'd therefore like to point out that Amanda deLeon is having a moving sale with almost sinfully low prices. Really. It doesn't feel right to pay only $100 and under for each piece, especially knowing how perfect her work is. Though I suppose I could feel okay about it if I broke my no-spending rule just for her. Hmm...

Che gelida manina

Though my spending money is spoken for (it was burning in my figurative pocket until the new mydearthing collection landed), there are still things that I would like. Such as this most gorgeous lingerie set (brief & braces, plus bra) from London-based designer Nichole de Carle's Onyx collection, which I have been drooling over since Queen Michelle posted it (though I could just do with the brief & braces, and pair it with my own black bra). 

Or these pieces from Amanda deLeon, which, yes, have been posted before, but are now on sale (as are some pieces from previous collections, which you have no reason to not snap up if you're a size 2-4). 

Or something warm from Mandula, especially as I've just received a coupon code for 20% off (this week only; type 'good bye' at the prompt). They would all go so well with the new mydearthing things. Not to mention my surprisingly delicious Delissio pizza, the hot cup(s) of the best coffee ever, and my toasty warm Eeyore slippers. Yes, Eeyore. Sometimes a Canadian girl just wants to be warm.

Itzakadoozie

The thing I love about these new pieces from Amanda deLeon is that I love them without really knowing why. Perhaps it's because they're photographed poolside. Perhaps it's the unexpected and very bold details that turn a simple shape into something special. Perhaps it's that hidden turquoise silk lining that surely gives the wearer super powers from just putting the garment on (...or at least a smile). Perhaps it's because of those cotton candy wigs. Perhaps it's because these one of a kind items would actually fit me. Perhaps it's because Amanda will replace the yellow leather with a synthetic material for those who would wish (like me). And perhaps it's because this dress is called 'Black Metal'...

Ah, I'm easy to please. Though something needs to keep me going until Season 4 of Tim Riggins is out...

Top 17 Finds of the Spring

So, I've been at this hitching post for over a year and have typed out over 600 posts already. Weird. I should probably start dating these summary posts, but for now, here's my first Top Finds of the spring season, meaning the kOs posts of the last three months that you should read if you feel like you've missed out on...something. Happy first day of the summer!

1) Designer: Amanda deLeon, Heather Martin of mono
2) Fashion grad student: Sky Lucy Young, Alexxsia Elizabeth
3) Male designer: David Chou
4) Label: Thomas
5) New collection: Mandula, 'Gallery 9', mydearthing S/S 10
6) Runway show: Central Saint Martins BA grad show
7) Basic piece: 4-way dress by Study NY
8) Future purchase: Dusturbance creation
9) Custom made piece: Attila Design Tea Part coat/dress
10) Post: Interview with Konrad Parol
11) Unexplainably popular post: This, featuring ArtLab tanks and scarves.
12) Most wordy posts, in two parts: Part 1, and Part 2
13) Most worn pieces: Attila Design Sybil dress, mydearthing Carly dress, Liza Rietz Points dress, mono jodhpurs, ArtLab Oversized Revolutionary Jacket
14) Best DVD set: Friday Night Lights Season 1
15) Three of the best nights of my life: Beauty and the Beast, Eddie Izzard, Eluveitie
16) Coolest dress ever: mono Scarf Dress
17) Most intriguing piece: Dress by Layo Gbadamosi

Interview with Amanda deLeon

After a quick look through the kOs archives or my list of favorite designers, it becomes apparent that my fashion sense is quite bipolar. On the one hand, I love clothing that is beautifully draped, as such pieces are not only gorgeous to look at, but are typically both elegant and comfortable to wear. However, on the other hand, I gravitate towards clothing that is architecturally inspired, as I love the concept of wearable art that has severe tailoring and origami-like details to accentuate the body. Hence it is no surprise that I have fallen in love with Amanda deLeon's designs, which include startling creations from both polarities. As I am always taken aback by young designers with such diverse talent, I am quite delighted that Amanda took the time to satisfy my curiosity with the following interview. Though, in truth, I find I might still need my own Amanda deLeon piece to be fully satiated...

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How did you get into fashion design, and what is your formal background?

I've alway been somewhat of a builder/designer.  Ever since I could cut, tape, staple, and glue, my Barbies have donned some of the wildest couture (haha).  My mom taught me how to sew when I was ten years old.  She said to me, "Now, Amanda, everyone needs to know how to sew."  My formal education is in architecture and interior design, and I use those skills everyday.  I've never been part of the normal fashion crowd.  Even though I do recognize when something is truly beautiful, I've always leaned away from the norm, which is why I began designing and building my own wardrobe.  

What is the very first piece you remember designing?

It was for a 4-H project.  I chose to do a Natasha style pencil suit, which is a double breasted jacket with a hip flare and a knee length pencil skirt.  On top of all that construction, I decided to use a black and white plaid taffeta….don't judge me!  So my mom, being the strict teacher that she was, said "If you are going to do this, you are going to do it right."  So she taught me how to lay the pattern out so all of the plaids would match up around the suit and up and down from jacket to skirt.  From that moment on, I decided that I would never work in plaid again!

What is your most treasured piece of clothing, either bought or hand-made?

Pretty much any piece that I have made for myself, because it is rare that I get the time to treat myself to my own time and talents.  Which is sad when the reason I started designing was for myself.

Do you wear your own designs?

Absolutely!  The reason I became a fashion designer is to have a clothing collection for myself that I couldn't just find at any shop.

You cite architecture and music as your inspiration. Do you actively seek out new ideas by purposefully looking at/listening to something, or is it a more organic process where you might see a building and suddenly picture a new clothing design?

It is an organic process with me.  I have my Itunes playing while I work and a certain song will begin playing, I will stop everything I am doing and walk the runway down my hallway, and the feeling and attitude of the music will get my mind spinning with so many ideas, that I barely have time to write them all down.  All of my designs will always have some sense of architectural being.  I love to study angles and curves, and many of my designs are one big math problem.  Some pieces have come about by basically building a model to create a structure, then disassembling the structure, and plotting it out on fabric.

If you could design a piece/outfit for anyone, who would it be?

Anyone who trusts me to create what's in my head.

I was surprised to find out that you also design children's clothing! How did that come about? Do you think you'll be injecting more modern and architectural elements into your children's line?

I have always had a full time job and building my business has been a side project.  The intention behind the children's clothing is to supplement my income, so I can finally quit my day job.   I do want to slowly build it into a modern line, but for now, time is always an issue.  Hopefully in the near future I will be able to concentrate on my business full time, but I am still a one man show, so that will take some time.

Your husband is the man behind the camera for the amazing photos for your latest collection. Do you get his input on new designs and styling for a photoshoot? How is it working with your spouse?

I am always getting his advice and opinion on color combos, fabric, and sketches.  He brings a fresh eye and an outsider view to my pieces.  I think he is an amazing photographer and I feel incredibly lucky to work with him,  but sometimes it can be difficult to work together.  We expect more from one another than we would from any of our other clients because we know one another's potential.  The last few shoots have been very rushed, so this next group of pieces will be planned out in detail, so there is little stress during the shoot.

What is the fashion scene like in North Carolina? Do you get a lot of local attention and support, or do you find more of your fans to be elsewhere in the States or elsewhere in the world?

I think there is some kind of fashion scene anywhere that you go,  but it's definitely not my scene.  There is a small group of people that have tried their hardest to introduce my style to the local scene, but the reality is that I am still in the south and it is still very conservative in many ways.  I'm happy that I finally jumped on the Etsy train, so that I can get a much broader audience.   As of now, most of the interest in my clothing comes from overseas and the west coast.

If you weren't a designer, what do you think you would be doing for a career?

I would always be some sort of an artist.  Probably a landscape designer or photographer.  They both would require me to be out in "the field," as I am not one to sit at a desk.

What is your favorite experience as a designer so far?

I definitely enjoyed being a part of Charleston Fashion Week.  I was chosen as a finalist to show at CFW 2009 and loved every minute of it.  If I could put on a runway show of that caliber every year, I would be in heaven.  Fashion shows are the best way to show my designs.  The music, hair, and makeup all come together to create a vision of complete style and artistry.  Fashion shows are my art openings.

What is your favorite piece from your latest collection?

My favorite piece would have to be the Ridge Back Dress (below).  It also happens to be Kat Von D's favorite dress that she has in her closet.

And lastly, what's up next for Amanda deLeon Clothing?

Well, right now, I am preparing for a photo shoot to showcase my latest pieces.  I'm really excited about them…I'm not much on summer clothing, but since I do live in the south and it get's pretty hot down here, I needed to create summer pieces that are still my taste.  As for further in the future, I hope to create some new pieces for the fall and begin working on spring/summer 2011 designs for a runway show presentation.

***

Make sure to stop by Amanda's main Etsy shop for your own drapey/architectural piece, and her children's clothing Etsy shop, Rabbit's Foot Clothing, for the stylish kid in your life. And keep the Amanda deLeon Clothing Facebook page bookmarked for updates!

Amanda deLeon

I have just been floored by an amazing designer. Her name is Amanda deLeon from Wilmington, North Carolina, and her avant garde designs are literally breath-taking. Her newest collection, entitled 'Armored', features an array of different materials in my favorite colour palette (with just a hint of teal and plum), constructed into various architectural shapes and highlighted with chevron cuts and 'gill' detailing. All in one collection, you can find one size drapey pieces, boxy pieces, bubble hem pieces, and severely tailored pieces with or without exaggerated hips, as well as sleeveless, sleeved, or one-sleeved pieces. I couldn't ask for more. Well, except for asking if the one-of-a-kind/limited pieces can be made in my size. Amanda's biggest fan on Etsy is the tattoo queen Kat Von D herself, so I'm thinking you best get yourself an Amanda deLeon piece while you can! Just leave the Armored Vest (below) for me, please.