Shako Nikva

When I saw these photos on Fashion156 last week, I immediately decided that I did not want to post anything else until I got my hands on them. They are from the S/S 12 lookbook (if you could call it that) of Georgian designer Shako Nikva. Everything about these photos is perfect: the dog, the location (which simultaneously reminds me of the Okanagan and the underwater highway in the Columbia River), and that gorgeous suit/dress, complete with a hole for a wayward ponytail. Sigh.

(Photos by Mari Nakani Mamaskhlisi)

Josefin Strid, A/W 11/12

Okay class, as a mid-term review, Swedish designer Josefin Strid (whose A/W 09/10 maxi dress will still be involved in inspiring my Vivienne recreation/masterpiece, if ever I get to it...) has kindly provided us with one simple piece that combines the following topics we've covered:

1) Aprons (see here and here, for example).
2) Men in skirts (see whatever).
3) Draping (pick a random kOs link, and chances are you'll see some draping nearby).

This comes from Josefin's A/W 11/12 'La Pianiste' collection (inspired by Elfriede Jelinek's book, The Piano Teacher) which is filled with gorgeous minimalistic/school-(or piano-)teacher pieces (which are mainly wool), such as the long dress below (which would give a whole different tone to 'whatever'...). These pieces are already available as made-to-order in Josefin's webshop, by the way (just remember the prices are in SEK).

Josefin also created a limited edition part of the collection which contains some fantastic looking pieces that make me think of Gareth Pugh's sliced dress. There's a brilliant strapless ballgown and a bustle-y skirt, but I believe those two pieces are made of leather. I am more than happy, however, to have to post this full length wool coat to demonstrate the sliced aesthetic. Rather depressing inspiration behind it, but quite a lovely effect, no?

(Photos via NJAL, Josefin's Facebook, and webshop.)

Whatever

You know how 'whatever' was such a powerful word when you were a teenager? It was always the perfect response to any question, but depending on who you said it to and with what inflection, its effects could range from being admired by your peers, (and/)or grounded for the weekend. And I imagine it would've been even more powerful if you were wearing a long black dress whilst saying it. I don't know about you, but a long black dress that was not expressly purchased as a bridesmaid's dress (don't ask) did not enter my wardrobe until very recently (thanks to ArtLab and Alexandra Groover, in fact). My question now is whether I could recreate the same teenage angst if I got a hold of one of these unisex/androgynous pieces from Ukrainian-Russian label WHATEVER, from designer Alexandra Burzum (not to be confused with Varg Vikernes'/Count Grishnackh's black metal band) and art-director Sheina Miretskaya (found via NJAL). Actually, I know I just provided you the link, but could you do me a favour and not visit the WHATEVER website? I have a feeling this is going to be my new favorite label (did I mention they use only natural materials?), and there's a lot more photos I'd love to post here from previous collections. I mean, you can do whatever you want, but, whatever.

And speaking of metal, if you haven't been to a black metal or folk metal show and are wondering what it would all entail, below is the standard look you'd see up on stage. Some days just aren't complete without seeing a guy with gorgeous long hair wearing a skirt or dress and headbanging.

Anachronism

An anachronism — from the Greek ανά (ana: up, against, back, re-) and χρόνος (chronos: time) — (ism: act state and condition) is an inconsistency in some chronological arrangement, especially a chronological misplacing of persons, events, objects, or customs in regard to each other.*

I don't know what this mini-collection from Kristofer Kongshaug is about (found via NJAL), but it doesn't really matter, does it? And that might be the point, given their collective title. Perhaps each piece is a B-side of sorts from previous collections. Or perhaps the anachronism no longer exists because I slightly altered the order of the photos from how they're presented on NJAL. Hmm...At any rate, I really want to see the seam work for each of these pieces for some reason.

In other news, Inbar Spector's online shop is finally open! Beware, for she takes PayPal...

*Ah, good ol' Wikipedia. Scourge of professors (and/or students) everywhere.

Laura Siegel, S/S 12

While I have never before wanted to go to Toronto (at least to my recollection), I would have preferred being there this afternoon than my hometown. The reason being that former kOs-interviewee Laura Siegel finally resurfaced and was showing her S/S 12 collection at Toronto Fashion Week. Laura spent six months in India and South-East Asia to collaborate with artisans, such as those in the Dhebaria Rabari Tribe, to come up with the dye work, embroidery, and textiles within this very airy collection. Quite a different direction from her nomadic graduate collection, but still focusing on sustainable creations. Rather lovely, don't you think? Not to mention perfect, and making me willing to forego my usual blacks and greys. I am going blonde, after all. Also, for the second time I find myself thinking about Libby from LOST as a result of seeing pretty floaty island-ish clothing. I didn't even like her that much as a character, so I'm not really sure what's going on there. What I am sure of, however, is that bad bridesmaids dresses have given sea-foam as a colour an undeserved bad name, as Laura and Inbar Spector have both proved its worth.

(Photos via FDCC's Facebook)

and no dream is altogether a dream

You know it'll be a good weekend when you wake up to photos of Wolfgang Jarnach's newest collection. And, of course, a mountain of concord grapes awaiting their demise (what should I make today - focaccia or granita?). And so. Wolfgang has entitled the collection (presented at this past LFW's Vauxhall Fashion Scout) 'traumnovelle // dream story', inspired by Arthur Schnitzler's novella of the same name. I have no idea what the novella is about, but the 'girls' side of the collection has a very operatic feel to me, as well as a blatant desire to hide. It's really an interesting juxtaposition to have a completely sheer over-dress beside a dress that hides both the shape and half the face of its wearer (I'd love to try on both of these pieces), or a corset beside a mound-ish cape. The 'boys' side of the collection (modeled by Wolfgang's brother), on the other hand, is more runway than opera, with gorgeous tailored jackets and a romantic palette perfect for a midnight garden party. I'm especially intrigued by the half-shirt/half-smoking jacket piece. The hybrid may simply be suggested by its styling, but in my mind that's really how it's constructed. Ah Wolfgang, you remain my favorite German designer. And have I mentioned that I wear my scarf from you nearly every cold day?

(Photos via NJAL)

Alexandra Groover, S/S 12

I'm sure some of you have already seen the latest video from kOs favorite Alexandra Groover showcasing her S/S 12 'LIFE' collection, no thanks to my preoccupied self. But today Alexandra finally posted some still photos that are a bit more lookbook-ish. These two are my favorite pieces, being the Pinnate Cardigan (above) and the Arcuate Dress (below). 

This photo, however, featuring the Alate Dress/Skirt, is what demanded my full attention. Reminds me of an Italian Renaissance portrait, though I couldn't say which one exactly I'm thinking of. Or am I thinking of Angelica Houston in Ever After? Same difference, right?

An Alexandra Groover online shop is coming soon! You've been warned. By the way, can you believe it's nearly been two whole years since I interviewed Alexandra? Time flies...

Conchita Perez

There's something about Spanish-born and London-based designer Conchita Perez's work that makes me want to meet up with her for coffee and a bagel (with cream cheese). I have a feeling we would both prefer to live in another time, or within some epic novel. And there are so many different techniques and styles used throughout her collections, that her lookbooks look more like editorials comprised of a few different designers who all have a similar aesthetic. The lookbook for her 'Impression' collection in particular rather strongly reminds me of the stock photos seen in the merchandise created for the Met's McQueen exhibit. Rather fitting, in fact, as Conchita worked for McQueen after graduating in 2003. There's just something about these pants (above) that make me want to take up jousting or start quoting Shakespeare or something. And though I'd prefer not wearing the big pirate belt with the pants below, I have a feeling these would introduce a little swagger into my step either way. Speaking of pirates, I'm off to do some more reading. Somehow my Latin and Greek research has led me to cross-dressing pirates in Cervantes...

(Photos via NJAL)

The Iteration

It appears that I'm most intrigued by clothing patterns that look simple on paper, but have great complicated theories behind them. (Remember Julian Robert's subtraction cutting method?) Hence why Russian designer Lisa Shahno's 'The Iteration' collection (found via NJAL) has me going repeatedly though the photos. The collection, created by squares divided by diagonals (the number of which depends on the piece), isn't based on origami or architectural ideas in the brick-and-mortar structure sense, as you might expect from looking at looking at the finished piece, but rather is based on the Fractal Cosmology theory, i.e. the possible architectural idea behind the structure of the universe. Whoa, right? I'm hoping that that winter jacket's connection to the universe means that it would thus magically/scientifically protect its wearer from any weather. Because I hear that my hometown is in for our coldest winter yet (for the 5th year in a row...). Why couldn't I live in a different fractal?

Building Blocks

Question time: We all know that too many people wear leggings as if they were pants. But, would you wear pants as leggings? This could solve the problem I was considering having when a pair of '07 Alexander McQueen cropped pants (or long shorts) were on eBay at an extremely low price even just a couple hours before the end of the auction. Because, if you know me, you know I do not wear shorts outside of my apartment. However, if the shorts were (vintage) McQueen, I would make a special exception and hope to find a styling option that was suitable for my general aesthetic. The problem is, it's now fall and I hate the tights-and-shorts combo with a(n almost unhealthy degree of) passion. However, as indirectly suggested to me by New Zealand designer Sherie Muijs (found via NJAL), could layering pants underneath a shorter pair of pants be the solution? And what about under skirts and dresses, for that matter? My head says no, but my heart has yet to speak up. Any opinions?

no cloud, but the crystal body*

Yesterday was a little awkward for me in terms of blogging, as it was the day of the Alexander McQueen S/S 12 presentation. Or, more accurately, Sarah Burton's Alexander McQueen S/S 12 presentation. I mean, I wanted to blog, and I did like some of the pieces (a few were a little too boudoir-only for my tastes). However, I know that, realistically, if the label was not called 'Alexander McQueen', I wouldn't have even bothered looking at the photos, just as with the majority of the labels that show at Paris and Milan. I also couldn't help but picture Kate Middleton walking down the runway in most of the pieces, and I'm a little bit bitter about that. And so, if you're wanting to see the collection and haven't yet, head on over to the McQueen website to see the video. That's really the best way to experience the collection so that you can see the corsetry and peplum details in the back, as well as the shoes. And the end with all the models lined up in colour blocks looks pretty.

Anyway, what we're seeing here is something a bit more Lee McQueen-ish. These are the gorgeous creations of Danish designer Dennis Lyngsø (found via NJAL). I have a feeling there are a lot more photos to be found that I'd want to post from Dennis' collections, as his webpage alludes to 'and essential array of lavish dresses, tailored shirts, [and] constructed skirts.' But I must continue reading this 35-page article on Ezra Pound and H.D., or I'll feel like I'll never get this mountain of reading done.

*Ezra Pound, The Pisan Cantos