Yohji Yamamoto, S/S 12

Mr. Yamamoto had so much going on in his S/S 12 that my head is spinning a bit. Or that might be from the CLR fumes at work. Anyway, whilst going through the thirty-six looks, I kind of forgot that I was looking at one designer's collection, as I was seeing some Victor & Rolf, Vivienne Westwood, Comme des Garçons, Gary Graham, Chanel, and Cindy Lou Who. In short, there's something for everyone to like (and, yes, if you're the glass-is-half-empty kind of person, something for everyone to dislike). And I really like these. I particularly feel the need to have a skirt that's business in the front, party in the back.

(Photos via UK Vogue)

Yang Li

To continue on the apron obsession, my vote today is for this S/S 12 minimalistic piece (which I suppose is more of a smock than an apron...) from Beijing-born, Central Saint Martins educated, and UK-based designer Yang Li. The back collar, for lack of a better term, is seen throughout the collection, and I quite like it. I also quite like the outfit below, even though I'm not entirely sure what's going on. The same could be said of my outfit yesterday though, so I obviously appreciate the confusing (and androgynous) layered look. Is it a surprise that Yang was previously an intern for Gareth Pugh?

(Photos via UK Vogue)

Where are they now?

I've been sorely neglecting my duties of keeping you updated on ol' kOs favorites, so I thought I'd combine three such updates into one neat package. First up is fashion grad Stacey Grant. We last visited her over a year ago while she was studying for her MA at Kingston University. Well, Stacey graduated and has just accepted a position as a lecturer for Fashion Design at the University of Wales. Congratulations, Stacey! This is good news both for her and for future designers. Oh, how I still want this dress of Stacey's...

Second up is Becca McCharen's Chromat. It's only been a couple of months since we last saw the cagey aesthetic of this NY-based label, but the S/S 12 collection lookbook has been out for a couple of weeks already, and it's time you see it. While the A/W 11 collection was comprised primarily of accessories, S/S 12 features stand-alone pieces of clothing that you can go out to brunch with your parents in, while still getting that blatant look of disapproval from anyone over sixty (go to the Chromat Facebook to see more). What I'm loving most from the collection though is Chromat's first foray into swimwear. That is how a bikini should be done, as far as I'm concerned.

And last up is Inbar Spector. We last saw Inbar in about 1859, or thereabouts, when she graciously answered some of my questions. Well, as you may have seen posted by Queen Michelle, Inbar has finally put out another collection, which was just shown at last week's Vauxhall Fashion Scout portion of LFW. At first I thought that the collection was a huge departure from her previous work, but after seeing the entire collection on Inbar's (updated) website, I can see that she's simply added even more intricacies into her aesthetic by upping the opulent factor, and has thus even moreso honed her talent for creating couture. Make sure you double click to see the gorgeous details, and go to Inbar's site to watch the runway video. I'd definitely wear that seafoam swan-ish dress (seafoam!), and it goes without saying that I can still see Björk wearing every single piece of Inbar's. Sigh.

Ladies, I'm so proud.

Gareth Pugh, S/S 12

I'm supposed to be preparing for my meeting with my future MA advisor tomorrow morning, but I had to post these distracting photos now so that they're off my desktop. I have to say, I just love Gareth Pugh's S/S 12 collection. The 3D detailing of the necklines and shoulders is fantastic. Though the vertical slat pieces look completely unwearable, they do answer the question of what you could possibly do with those air vent covers if you just couldn't afford a new dress, à la Miss O'Hara. And I love the lining of my new favorite piece (below). Looks like the painting I did on the wall in my old bedroom.

(Photos via UK Vogue)

Can I

I have something to discuss with you. I know I've (quite recently) complained about other blogs and websites changing. And I know I've shared with you my wish to stay in the Dark Ages and not keep up with technology and whatnot. But Blogger has just got some pretty sweet new templates that I'm tempted to use. kOs would look quite different, but an update would hone the modern and clean look that I was originally going for and look more grown-up in general. I'm not sure how it would change all the fun stuff I have in the sidebar, or if I'll have any freedom to change the background colour and whatnot, so there might be a bit of a transition phase. So, what do you think? I'm hoping you'll like it. Here's a pretty S/S 12 Limi Feu sweater dress as a peace offering just in case. Be sure to check out the rest of the collection in case you're into executive jesters and Gwen Stefani.

(Photo via UK Vogue)

Symbolic Evidence

I've been feeling all out of sorts these last couple days, as I'm apparently bored with my coffee, can't seem to handle the foods I normally eat (or perhaps the air I normally breathe), and I've confused my own brain by switching from only reading fiction to only reading academic journals. Add to the mix the horrible confirmation of my suspicion that Jonsi's beautiful jacket has indeed been cut into pieces (as seen in the 'Klippa' video, and I think I'm in need of a walk along the ocean whilst clothed in a a gorgeous and yet comfy dress. I have a feeling this one by UK designer Ana Every (found via NJAL) would set things right.

A napron

In case you couldn't tell, I just didn't want to bump down the new Verlaine collection(s) with a new post this weekend. However, I think it's time for something new, and I do believe an ArtLab creation will fill the first post spot rather well. Apron dresses keep popping up on my radar, making me think that it's time I got one. And it would definitely have to be this ArtLab one, with it's clean cut, pockets, and asymmetrical bustle detail. Having the top portion removable (with snaps) is quite brilliant (see below). Of course I'd ask Patricia to switch out the leather strap for a canvas or elastic one. I also wonder if it's possible to make a winter-friendly apron with that gorgeous boiled wool she uses for her artisanal coat. By the way, is it weird that I hate halter dresses but like aprons? Hmm...

Il pleure dans mon coeur/Comme il pleut sur la ville.*

Okay, I completely blame academia as a whole for me not sensing the second that the following two lookbooks were posted. And I profusely apologize for being unable to share them with you until this moment. Now, let's move on.

What you're seeing above is the S/S 12 collection from that magical mythical Lower East Side label known as Verlaine. My head is all fuzzy with Latin and hagiography and whatnot, but it seems to me that the collection turned out a wee bit different from the mood board and photos of the muslin samples that I saw in June. Which is in no way a bad thing, as I am extremely happy with how the Shakespearean-inspired jacket turned out (see below), for instance. There was a swatch of the eyelet tape on said mood board, but only drawings of how it was going to be used. I couldn't have imagined a better outcome. And that long flowy dress? Sigh. The collection as a whole is very distinctly Verlaine, with their perfect method of gathering and draping that doesn't add bulky volume to the sleek silhouettes. While the geniuses at Verlaine have thankfully brought some sanctity and sanity (i.e. the colour black) to the oft-too bright S/S season, this collection brings to the Verlaine table for the first time not just elaborate dye experiments, but a couple of prints and white pieces. As you know my bias leads me to post mainly monochromatic things here, I now put the responsibility on you to go to the Verlaine site to view these such pieces. They look better on a white background anyway.

And now, after all that about just wanting to post black pieces, I introduce to you the brand new basic line from Verlaine, V Verlaine. As it's not produced in NY like the mainline, but rather in Bali, it is set to be within a more affordable range, and consists of cotton and jersey pieces that you'd want to wear everyday (really, I wanted to take home the entire set of samples when I saw them in June). Rest assured that the Verlaine team is still very involved in the V line (indeed, I have a sneaking suspicion that having the production far away from NY is a convenient excuse for the extremely charming founder of Verlaine to frequently get away from the busy city and visit his friends in a beautiful location), and they are very excited about giving more people the opportunity to own their own Verlaine piece. As everyone should.

*Poetry provided by Paul Verlaine (1844-1896).

Shopping List

- 1 twisted dress long

- 1 twisted dress short
- 1 scarf jacket
- 2 robe dresses (1 silk, 1 jersey)
- series of small walls (optional)

Julia and Ben, I do believe you've stolen my heart.

Now, does anyone here consider themselves up to date on the latest hagiography scholarship?

(Photos via NJAL)

Alice Palmer (for Jordan Baker)

So, for whatever reason, I just read The Great Gatsby. I know, that's probably a blasphemous thing for an avid reader like myself to say. It probably would've happened sooner if I weren't so obsessed with reading everything by David Foster Wallace lately, but here we are. And so. This morning it struck me that there was very little description of the clothing the characters wore. I suppose that's not entirely odd, as it was written in the period it's set in, so there was no need to create the period for its contemporary readers. Womenswear in the 20s was so fascinating though, so I would've liked some visual cues, particularly during the scenes of Gatsby's parties. However, when perusing some non-familiar designers who have shown thus far at LFW, I think I've discovered what the character Jordan Baker might've worn. She is described at some point as wearing all clothing including fancy gowns as if they were her tennis playing wear, and in at least two passages she appears to be balancing some invisible thing on her chin. With that in mind, I present to you a few spectacular pieces from Alice Palmer's S/S 12 collection. Isn't Alice a lovely name? 

(Photos via UK Vogue)