Requiem for a Dream 10

Ooo, do I ever want this dress. I'm very happy to discover a new-ish Etsy shop entitled Madame Chic De France, which features the fantastic creations of a Sweden-based French designer named Jenny Eve, as well as some great vintage pieces from her collection. I actually just indirectly encountered this shop while in NY, as I met up with a very happy designer who had just purchased and received a 1980s CdG jacket from Jenny. I would love to post a whole heap of photos of Jenny's own designs right now, but I'm unfortunately on a laptop that would undoubtably seek to end my life and subsequently take over at least this section of my city if it had appendages or weapons attached with which to do so. So here are a mere two photos, both of Jenny's breathtaking (and free sized) 'Requiem for a Dream 10' dress, which was hand-sewn over three days from over four yards of draped and braided cotton and silk blend jersey. It definitely makes me think more of Darren Aronofsky's Black Swan than of his Requiem for a Dream, but I appreciate any reference to his work (whether that was Jenny's meaning or not). I also appreciate anything that is not white right now, as the weather seems to have forgotten that it is now the time for precipitation in the form of rain and NOT more snow. Sigh.

Central Saint Martins, F/W 11

The one runway show that I most look forward to during the fashion weeks is that of the Central Saint Martins grads. I did see a few photos from the show when I had a few minutes on a computer at the New York Public Library, but today is the first time I got to sit down and look through all of the 204 photos up on Style.com. And, quite frankly, I wasn't completely blown away with this batch of emerging designers, though I know graduate collections shouldn't fix my judgement of these individuals for the rest of their careers. Nonetheless, this review of the CSM F/W 11 show is really a review of one designer, with a couple of his colleagues. So, let's start with the colleagues. 

First up is Daniel Lee. I'm not entirely impressed with the creation of shape by tying knots in the fabric in the majority of Daniel's pieces (as seen in the above photo on the left), as it basically looks like someone just put a little more thought into their costume for a toga party. I do, however, really enjoy the stamped print on the plaid that is seen throughout the collection, and the dress seen above on the right is one of my favorite pieces from the entire CSM show.

Second is Pier Wu. His collection is hands down the best menswear of the group, with a lovely mixture of medieval inspiration and clean minimalist shapes. I'd definitely keep an eye out on this guy, especially as I'd very comfortably wear his designs.

And for the remainder of the post, let me introduce to you Viktor Smedinge. A few of Viktor's pieces aren't entirely wearable, and most shouldn't be worn by those who are very conscious of their shape. However, as you may know, Beauty and the Beast is near and dear to my heart, so it's nice to see that Cogsworth is getting the credit he deserves, albeit on the runway.

And now, off to watch the Oscars! 

(Photos via Style.com)

Chromat, A/W 11

There were two events I received invitations for that I was very sad to miss as a result of going to NY after Fashion Week. The first was the InAisce F/W 11/12 presentation, which occurred the very same night that I was enjoying my much needed fix of folk metal. My inability to attend was partly made up by my ability to attend the InAisce sample sale the weekend I was in NY. Well, maybe 'ability' is too strong of a word, as the long trek from the Metropolitan Museum of Art down to Chrystie St. (followed by a trek back to Brooklyn, then back to Manhattan, and then back to Brooklyn to meet the lovely Patricia Ayres) pretty much did my foot in for the remainder of the week, meaning I did not do much exploring this time around in NY. Sigh. I was however rewarded with a most excellent InAisce jacket for only $90, which I'm sure will make an appearance in an upcoming post or two.

The second event I had to miss was a party put on in honour of Chromat, where Becca McCharen debuted her A/W 11 collection. For those of you that have met me, you know I'm not a big party goer, but Becca is one of the sweetest people I've ever met, and her smile is so infectious that I know I would've had a great time. Good thing that she didn't wait too long to post lookbook photos of the new collection, entitled 'Blood Sport'. I really love the mood of the photoshoot and the inspirations behind the collection, being "the royalty, athleticism and dark sexuality of Olympic athletes." I have long been a loyal fan of the Summer Olympics as I have had dreams of being a professional sprinter since my elementary school track and field days, but I've never seen the various sports quite like this. Indeed, I think this is the strongest Chromat collection thus far, especially as it contains both the show-stopping avant garde cage pieces I've come to expect from Becca (such as the perfect halo collar, shown above, and the cycling pannier skirt, shown below), as well as more wearable pieces for the more conservative dresser, such as the lifter sleeves (above), warm-up collar (vest-like piece above), shinguard cages (a perfect accessory for boring leggings!), and the cleat cages (a.k.a. sexy spats, seen below). I'm also a huge fan of the rings shoulders (below), which would look stunning over a simple black dress or a long strapless gown. Becca, I'm awarding you the gold medal for this collection!

(Photography by Gemma Fleming)

Alexandra Groover, A/W 11

And I'm back! Just like Alexandra Groover, who has just posted this video that was shown to a lucky few last week in London. 'BIRTH' is the first of a trilogy of shorts that feature Alexandra's fifth collection and her continued use of convertible noir garments, which this time are constructed out of squares of fabric. This film kinda sorta freaks me out, but I am still recovering from a week of having the worst cold ever, followed by a week of being unable to walk, followed by 15 hours of horrendous travel homeward, six of which were on one flight that was dominated by 120 symphony members who seemed to have erroneous information on the standing policies of an aircraft flying tens of thousands of feet above the ground through turbulent air. In fact, any sounds of distress within 'BIRTH' pretty much matches the sounds I was making inside my head whilst I was trapped in the very back corner of the packed plane, aka airborne crazy train. I dearly love New York, but goodness it's good to be home.

ep·ic [ˈɛpɪk]

adj.

1. denoting, relating to, or characteristic of a Finnish metal band rocking whilst its members are ill with fevers, etc.

2. of a (long unseen) local doppelganger of Matt McNamara from Nip/Tuck suddenly having impressive foot-long hair.

3. surpassing the usual small amount of clothing a carry-on bag would fit in most dimensions.

4. the below illustrated nylon jacket by joodito.

I'm off to New York! See you in a week. 

Academy of Art, F/W 11

With all my efforts directed at attaining a clean bill of health for my post-NYFW trip, I had forgotten about the one NYFW show which I looked forward to most last season. So, though I should've been packing or stuffing things into mini bottles, I've spent the last few hours looking for and looking at videos and photos of this season's Academy of Art University show, which took place last week. And though it was easy to pick out my favorite from last year's graduates, this year a few of the designers have caught my eye.

1) Dejchat Sriyoopum. Dejchat began his studies in Thailand, where he was a designer and instructor before going to the States. His inspirations of architecture and Victorian era women are clearly seen in these looks which I would gladly wear to a gallery opening or to the library.

2) Holly Smith. Holly worked at Coach before getting her MFA in Fashion Design. I'm thinking that was a good move, with these gorgeously sleek pieces inspired by the double crested cormorant, a water-diving bird. 

3) Hurst Chang-Wei Lin. Hurst's background in Chinese Literature and as a magazine editor have led to the interesting pairing of warm winter fabrics with stainless steel mesh (or, as I call it, mithril). I love every single one of Hurst's looks, hence the extra photos (make sure you double click to see the details).

4) Stephanie Gelot. Sure, Stephanie's collection isn't usual kOs fare, but it should be obvious that I have a thing for the nomadic look, especially cozy ones which are perfect for a snowy day. And this MFA in Knitwear Design grad just happens to be Canadian.

5) Jonathan David Baker. I think it's obvious that I like the layered look. So, coming from this MFA in Knitwear Design grad who just happens to also be a hair stylist that has worked for the only hair salon I will go to (Aveda), his Japanese underground culture inspired collection is almost right up my alley. I say almost as it's really a shame that Jonathan felt the need to use foxes to complete his looks, especially as it seems he could have ready access to unwanted hair that didn't involve death. Heck, I just left a bunch of my noir locks on the floor at Aveda the other day. Sigh. 

If you have about sixteen minutes to spare, you can watch the entire show here. Let me know what your favorite designer or look is. Now, off to see some Finnish folk metal!

(Photos via Fashionising.com)

Marie Saint Pierre, F/W 11

This is the collection I was holding my breath to see yesterday. Okay, I slightly jest, as I couldn't really breathe anyway. But ever since discovering the 'grand dame of Montreal fashion', I have been looking forward to revisiting Montreal as soon as possible so that I can visit a Marie Saint Pierre boutique and see her gorgeous work in person. I will remain content for now at simply seeing photos of her impeccably tailored coats and must-have dresses, especially with offerings such as her F/W 11 collection, which closed Montreal's fashion week yesterday. With such a classic and streamlined look, not to mention the perfect colour palette and spot-on accessories, I think Marie knows exactly what she's doing (though a tommy gun wouldn't have been out of place here). In fact, I almost want to say this is my favorite F/W 11 collection... 

And here's one more, just because both the dress and this shot are awesome.

(Photos by Montreal-based photographer, Julia C. Vona. P.S. Click twice on each photo to zoom in.)

Edit: Eek! I just discovered that a couple of shops in NY carry MSP, with no less than two in Brooklyn. Oh what fun I shall have...