Top 18 Finds of Summer '10

I feel like I should've posted this even before my trip, as it's been fall here for a few weeks and some trees have already lost most of their leaves. Did I mention it's supposed to snow this week? Also, this is the first of my Top Finds posts that I now have to label with a year, since I've already done a top summer post here on kOs before. In case you were wondering. Ah, it's good to have my scarves back. Though they were never really gone. But before I (continue to) enjoy them, here's some warmer articles to (re-)read first.

1) Designer: Wolfgang Jarnach
2) Fashion grad student: Laura Siegel
3) Label: SHIN
4) New collection: Dori Tomcsanyi's S/S 10 collection, Marie Saint Pierre's F/W 10/11 collection
5) Fashion show: Fashion's Night Out - The Show
6) Basic piece: Button up shirt from Wolfgang Jarnach, Mad Marv jeans from Ravishing Mad
7) Future purchase: Emily Ryan dress
8) Future purchase if I win the lottery: Anything from Marc le Bihan.
9) Most musical post: Interview with Tyler W
10) Favorite new-to-me album: Swing Swing by Nicolas Repac
11) Best use of cross-stitch: This, from Susie Quillinan.
12) Most interesting way to recruit blood donors: This.
13) Most worn pieces: complexgeometries wave t, mydearthing Carly Dress
14) Most proud moment: Konrad Parol on Dazed Digital
15) Most commented on thing worn in NYC: ArtLab's Couture Pleated Harness No. 3
16) Best vacation ever (ie. Biggest understatement ever): One spectacular week in Brooklyn and Manhattan.
17) Most bizarre vacation ever: This, as depicted by some ArtLab skirts.
18) Most amazing insect-inspired dress ever: This, by Donovan Tjon.

tócame

I can never quite pin down why I've spent many hours of my life cross-stitching. It makes my eyes go blurry looking at the white cotton grid up close, it always seems like rocket science trying to figure out what symbol on the pattern matches which embroidery thread, and I can't really say I like the smell of the needle after holding it so long that I can't straighten out my fingers. Perhaps the love of cross-stitching is passed down through the maternal line, as my mom and her mom have both proudly displayed their own finished works in their own homes. At any rate, it's just one of those things that I enjoy doing and like finding other people who feel the same way. So I was rather delighted to hear from kOs regular Susie Quillinan, whose new website features some of her projects that I was not familiar with, including a couple that use cross-stitch as their medium. In her ongoing project, "tócame", the phrase 'touch me' is embroidered in cross-stitch and installed in an urban setting as a plea and provocation for those living in the city to experience and interact with their constructed surroundings (see above left and below).

Then, in Susie's project called "street x stitch", she re-creates small sections of different walls by cross-stitching them and then installing the re-creation on that wall, in a attempt to bring some softness to that urban landscape. I personally love this one the most, especially as the first two photos below are from an area in Brooklyn close to where I was staying.

I asked Susie a couple of question about these projects as I found them rather fascinating, so I thought I'd share them and Susie's answers with you:  

Me: Why did you choose cross stitch as your medium?

Susie: I have been working on a few cross stitch projects, exploring more contemporary ways of using a technique which I find to be a good antidote to my other work. In reality, I was also looking for projects which I could take with me on my travels as clearly, lugging sewing machines all over the world is not really an option... I was doing some work in the streets and had been looking for a way to add the materials I feel most attracted to working with: fabrics. I started with the tócame project because i am always fascinated by the texture of walls, especially in Lima where you have crumbling layers which create incredibly beautiful textures. I wanted to draw people's attention to the walls and their beauty and adding the word tócame (touch me) felt like the most immediate way to do that. It made sense to cross stitch the word in order to entice people to touch the walls, as the fabric and thread add an element that is somewhat incongruous in that context. I think the word itself is quite provocative and on another level it plays with the disconnection that many urban dwellers feel. It's the sensation of being surrounded by people, bodies and stories and not finding a way to engage, sensually or otherwise. After doing some tócame's, I realized that I wanted to explore the textures and colors of the walls a little more and that led to the wall replica pieces. 

Me: Will you be doing anything further with these two projects, or are the photos and the experience the end goal?

Susie: They are both ongoing projects and I like the simplicity of them and the fact that when I travel I can engage with a city on this level. I have also been invited to do a tócame mural in Lima which I will be installing later in the year.

Susie also has another cross-stitch project shortlisted for a competition in Barcelona, which you can find out more about here. Now, I think a trip to my local Fabricland is in order to buy some thread that matches that old curling rink just down the alley from me...

Etsy updates

I'm supposed to be doing some yoga and then carouse around, but there are a lot of great Etsy updates this morning:

1) I just discovered peace4you.net, and needed to share. This lovely man creates messenger bags from upcycled military bags, military tents, and leather jackets. So yes, they do contain leather, but I think I can get behind making sure the leather is used to its fullest extent if it's simply being recycled.

2) These are actually from a couple days ago, but I thought I'd include them here. The double t-shirt dress has been revamped by Take Off Your Clothes, complete with some softer t-shirts and a drawstring around the neck for more convertible-ness. I'm also loving this optical illusion type top with the longer draped front.

3) Audrey of Black Market Baby has just posted her Spring 2010 'Mysterium' collection, which has some lovely sheer and drapey pieces (with some great photos as well!).

4) A few more free association neckpieces have been posted in the Quillinan shop. Each can be worn hanging lower like a pendant, or as a neck ruff/choker. This one is my favorite.

5) And there are some gorgeous new wool and jersey creations in the hier apparel shop. Hmm, methinks I need to wear a hier apparel piece today.

In This Corner...Inspiration

"Before the Fall"

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Today's Corner is brought to you by the amazing Susi Quillinan of Quillinan. You simply must read my interview with Susi if you haven't already, and do visit both of her Etsy shops (here and here - free shipping on all Quillinan pieces this week!).

(P.S. In case you missed the memo, "In This Corner..." is a new segment on my blog, where a guest designer will write the post and let us all know a little bit about what goes on upstairs. Much more coming up!)

New Quillinan: Words and Threads

Oh my, what a lovely sight for snow-covered eyes. Yet another take on her free word association pieces, Susi Quillinan's newest one-off pieces feature 'chains' made of black Pima cotton thread with 'pendants' of fabric rectangles with words typed on them. Sigh.

Comforting totem poles

Not much sleep and backed-up kitchen sinks make me long for something clean, dry, and comforting. And the newest Quillinan pieces surely fit these requirements. I love Susi's newest idea of fabric totem poles, incorporated into her signature typewriter-typed free association fabric neckpieces. As Susi says, totem poles "remind of how our stories of ourselves accumulate one on top of the other, creating our memory and our sometimes unsteady, sometimes messy, sometimes beautiful idea of who we are." Just beautiful. And these are lower priced than her previous listings, for those of you who have been waiting to get yourself a Quillinan textile piece. Sigh.

I'm sure you've done your homework already, but do make sure you read my exclusive interview with Susi to find out more about this amazing artist.

Links à la Mode, Round 3

It totally made my day today to find out that my interview with Susi of Quillinan fame was picked as one of the top 20 blog posts of the week from IFB members. I loved this interview so much and am quite tickled that a lot of people who don't usually read my blog will now see this interview and find out about the amazing Susi. AND, IFB indirectly called me professional! Well I'll be...Check out the other wonderful links below.

Go Fashion Bloggers, Go!

Edited by Debutante Clothing

As more and more print magazines fold, bloggers seem to be growing in professionalism and media legitimacy. When bloggers such as Previously Owned and kaKofonie Of si(gh)lenS can get the scoop on international designers, you know the fashion playing field is being leveled. If bloggers can host great giveaways like Retro Chick’s, I wonder why the FTC needs to play big brother. Fashion Pulse Daily wants to know if you even care. It seems we are becoming the pretty, little websites that could. Yay bloggers!

Links à la Mode : November 5th

• 39th and Broadway - – Gender GAP
• Aysha's Rabbit Hole - – Cosimo Damato new hat collection!
• Bobbins And Bombshells - – pics from her trip to Phoenix including a mini vintage shopping guide.
• Decline Designs – Won’t Get Fooled Again: Counterfeit Melissa Shoes
• Denim Debutante - – Three Need-to-Know Tips to Help You Find Your Perfect Pair of Jeans
• Earth Vs. – Picking and making the best of your new (or old) winter coat
• Fashion Pulse Daily - – What do you really think and how much do you honestly care abot the FTC guidelines for bloggers?
• Fasshonaburu - – An upcoming label everyone should know about: Minimarket
• fête à fête - – Lia Lintern’s divine Winter 2010 coat collection
• Friend in Fashion – Giveaway – win a custom made dress or skirt
• Further Ado - – When fashion and architecture collide
• I'n The It Girl - – Assad Mounser Jewelry
• Idiosyncratic Style - – Top 10 Creepy Collections… loving the “darkside” of fashion.
• kaKofonie Of si(gh)lenS - – Interview with Susi Quillinan
• M.I.S.S. – Video Interview with Lydia Hearst – her top 5 favorite things about Fashion Week
• Monoxious - – How to make your own embellished lace tights
• Oranges and Apples - – Personal Shopper Giveaway – win a parcel of thrifted goodies tailored to your style, needs and ideas!
• Previously Owned - – Puerto Rican Fashion Spotlight: Stella Nolasco
• Retro Chick - – Win a Lowie wrap and gloves worth £129 courtesy of Cerise UK
• The Coveted - – Reviving Vintage Knickerbockers, The Perfect Fall Trouser
• The Curvy Fashionista - – Plus Size Curves and Fashion at the California Womens Conference

Interview with Susi Quillinan

My first reaction to Susi Quillinan's work (as found in her Etsy shops, Quillinan and etcétera) was utter awe. And the more I get to know this designer, the more that awe increases. Originally from Australia and now based in Peru, this self-taught designer embodies the very tenets of what 'ethically produced' and 'environmentally-friendly' should mean in fashion design. Furthermore, with a background in literature and living in a culturally rich and chaotic environment, Susi continues to push the boundaries of what 'fashion' really means. I hope you'll forgive my decision to not use photos within my following interview with Susi. I was truly captivated by this amazing artist's answers, as I think you will be. Do visit my previous posts on Susi's work (here, here, and here) after reading through the interview to fulfill your desire for more pretty pictures to look at.

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What is the very first piece you remember designing?

The very first thing I made myself was a skirt made from scraps of my mother's fabrics. I was about to head off on a trip to Europe and I was trying to save money, so rather than go out one Friday night, I sat down and taught myself the very basics of sewing.

After acquiring your self-taught skills, what made you get further interested in design? Was this before or after you studied professional writing and literature?

It was kind of a fortuitous accident really. Something that evolved very organically from making clothes for myself which friends and strangers would ask me to then make for them. From there, I started collaborating with an artist and friend with whom I began my first label and opened a store in Cusco, Peru. I've always been interested in the way we tell our stories and the stories of others, and somehow textiles and clothing felt like a much more immediate way of exploring that than words on a page.

Do you still wear your own designs?

Always. I never buy clothes.

What is your most treasured piece of clothing, either bought or self-made?

I am very hard on my clothes. I tend to have a favorite item which I wear until it is threadbare, so my favorite piece is changing all the time. Right now I am loving an oversized white tank top which I painted in a frenzy, sliced with a razor and wrote on. In winter I live in my vintage black leather biker jacket which was a gift from a friend.

What inspires you the most in your work?

Stories. Large and small.

How has your move to Peru influenced your designs?

In the beginning I drew a lot on the textiles from the Andes, their motifs and shapes. I used to incorporate a lot of those elements into my designs, attempting to create something more contemporary. Now I tend to work in a much more monochromatic palette. I am endlessly amazed by the textiles and traditional dress here in Peru, but I am now much more inspired by Peru in the here and now. I live much of the year in Lima which is a sprawling, chaotic city. The layers, the decay and the subtle beauties amidst the car horns and grey skies are the things that inspire me now.

Where did you get the idea to use a typewriter for your textile jewelry pieces?

I have always adored typewriters. The sound of the keys clacking against the paper, the bell at the end of the margin and the beautiful simplicity and functionality of the design. When I first began making clothes, it felt like an obvious evolution to use text on the pieces, and I loved the aesthetic of typed letters on fabric. The letters seem to soak right in, imprint themselves on the fabric in a more profound way than on paper. I made several items of clothing using typed text but then I moved away from that to explore other ideas. I recently came back to wanting to use text, and textile jewelry seemed like a more accessible way to do that. And there's something interesting about having all these words around your neck, like they've all just fallen out of your mouth.

Your pieces, particularly your Cochinilla collection (pictured above and below) and your free word association pieces, seem very inspired, conceptual, and emotional. Do you consider your work 'fashion', 'art', both, or something else altogether?

I have tried to fit my work into different boxes or define it as one or the other and I always find myself wriggling free. I guess the way I work is more akin to the way an artist works rather than a designer. I never draw and I rarely start a piece with a clear idea of what I want it to be. I tend to let things just happen naturally which calls for a lot of experimentation and a lot of time. But that's the bit I like... For me the concept is always the driving force and my eternal frustration is that I never feel that I can fully communicate the complexities of where a piece is coming from. I've learned to stop trying and just enjoy that part of the process for myself.

Do you listen to music while you work, and what is your favorite?

I always listen to music, but like my favorite item of clothing, it is constantly changing. Right now it's either the Yeah Yeah Yeah's, Francoiz Breut, Rachmaninov or Santo Gold.

What is a typical day for you?

There isn't one. Right now I am working on several different projects at once so the only constant is my morning coffee and plenty of chaos.

If you weren't a designer, what career would you see yourself in?

I would either be an MC, a sommelier or a librarian.

Do you think that sustainable and eco-conscious production of clothing will become/is becoming more prevalent in the fashion industry?

I think it definitely is, however what I see right now is a trend and often, merely a marketing ploy. I believe that ideas of sustainability are still in very early stages and that in order for the concept to evolve beyond a trend, designers and producers must take a more creative approach to the problem.

Where are your pieces available besides Etsy? Do you create your own projects for what you will be creating next, or do you have custom orders/store orders that you have to fill?

I am in a bit of a transition period at the moment. I have a small label here in Peru which I have had for sale in several stores in Lima, Cusco and Barcelona. However, I am not terribly good with structure, and running your own label requires a lot more stability than I currently have in my life. So, I have been steadily moving towards a much more project based existence which allows for the fact that I move around and travel a lot. That's why Etsy is such a great vehicle for me. I like to show my work in the places I visit and have set up exhibitions in places like Melbourne, Barcelona and New York.

What project are you working on now, and what is next up for you?

Right now I am working towards a show which I will be doing here in Lima in December. It's a performance piece where I will be customizing a series of garments in front of an audience, using paint, nail varnish, my typewriter and several other elements. I am also working on more neck pieces, an embroidery project and making blankets for homeless people from textile scraps which I collect. And I have just finished collaborating with my boyfriend on a photo project for the Lima edition of no name magazine which will be launched in early December.

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Visit Susi's two Etsy shops for one of a kind and limited edition pieces, and also her website for more information and portfolios of her previous work.

As promised, Dress Up Time.

My man is at work and I have the day off, so I thought I'd finally post some photos starring my wonderful new ArtLab pieces, plus some old(er) favorites. Changing my outfit more than once causes me to work up a frightful sweat, so you'll have to be content with my dress form standing in as the model. You can see my shadow in a few of the pictures though, so don't complain (please). You'll probably get the gist of it from the picture descriptions, but all but 2 of the pieces are handmade pieces bought directly from the designer, with all but 2 of the handmade pieces purchased on Etsy.

First up: the lovely ArtLab Space Odyssey dress, styled with various harnesses/accessories. From left to right: ArtLab Space Odyssey harness; ArtLab Couture Bib Noir; ArtLab Clinical White Harness No. 1; Norwegian Wood Elastic Harness; ArtLab Charlie Chaplin Couture Bib.

All the rest will feature the versatile ArtLab Military Skirt No. 1, as well as a basic white American Apparel ribbed tank. As pictured on the dress form, the outfits look mostly spring/summery. However, I would be wearing these over leggings, pants, jeans, or other skirts, and with armwarmers, mittens, and more/non-white underlayers (ie. tank tops, t-shirts, and long-sleeve shirts, especially my trusty treehouse 28 basics). My dress form only has one leg and no arms, so you'll have to use your imagination to fill these details in.

Basic outfit with one accessory. From left to right: Quillinan The Forgotten with Zip Neckpiece; Bonzie Le Coquette Ruffled Scarf; hier apparel Boldt Canvas Carapace; drapey vest by Covet. You can also kinda see my extra-high black monochrome Chucks in the 2nd photo.

Adding one more layer (except for the 1st photo - tank top missing). From left to right: ArtLab Charlie Chaplin Couture Bib; hier apparel Golden Mean Peasant Shift; hier apparel Vock Canvas Armour; Liza Rietz half circle tunic in black.

Adding an accessory. The first two photos feature the Liza Rietz waffle tucked tunic in herringbone, with the ArtLab Couture Bib Noir on the left, and the Attila Design Cown Neck Scarf on the right. The last photo features the ArtLab Andromache's Deconstruction Blanc dress with the ArtLab Couture Bib Noir.

This group features the ArtLab Bustle of Lysistrata, plus an accessory. From left to right: Las Lopez Wood Nymph Point Lace Shawl/Scarf; Attila Design Cowl Neck Scarf; hier apparel Boldt Canvas Carapace.

These are full outfits (minus the leggings/pants/mittens) that I would wear. The black top underneath is the complexgeometries two face dress, and the hoody is The Hoody (a.k.a. the Alexandra Groover 5-hooded hoody). The first two photos feature the ArtLab Clinical White Harness No. 1 over top the cg dress, with the Las Lopez Wood Nymph Point Lace Shawl/Scarf in the second photo. The last photo has the ArtLab Bustle of Lysistata instead of the Clinical White Harness No. 1.

And here are the two looks you would see me most often in, as I tend to be a creature of habit when it comes to throwing on an outfit quick. The first look (and probably the worst picture I snapped all morning) is the ArtLab Andromache's Deconstruction Noir, with The Hoody. The second look (and probably the best picture I snapped all morning) is the complexgeometries two face dress, ArtLab Clinical White Harness No. 1, Las Lopez Cobwebs Shawl/scarf, and my Yokoo East Hampton tote in pumpkin spice and charcoal grey.

Now I have to put all those clothes back in my closet/on their pile. Sigh.