McQueen blues and kapok dues

Since I'm anxiously sitting here whilst awaiting the results of my experimental treatment of my yet unworn F/W 07 Alexander McQueen wool/cashmere coat (i.e. machine washing it on the delicate cycle with vinegar to get the ridiculous perfume smells of the past owner out that are still around after 7 months of airing it out), I thought I'd share another eco-friendly tip for your home. With my almost year-old sensitivities to scents and many chemical smells, I'm being a lot more conscious as to what I surround myself with. And when it came time to replace our pillows, based on the bad reaction I had to our new Ikea couch, recommendations of staying away from foam (especially memory foam, which off-gasses for far too long), and my man's allergy to (and our mutual dislike of) down-filled pillows, I had a feeling that regular store-bought pillows of any type would not cut it anymore. So, even though the tight moving-time budget didn't really allow for it, I decided it was worth splurging on the one item that I stick my nose closest to for 7 to (I'll be honest) 11 hours a day. The local environmental boutique where I bought the hemp shower curtains had three options of environmental- and people-safe pillows, one stuffed with rubber, one with wool, and the other with the silken seed covering from the kapok tree. Since my man is allergic to rubber and the wool ones were $100 each, I went with the kapok option. And I'm sold. The pillow is rather firm as it's stuffed quite full, but there's a zipper in the organic cotton case so you can remove as much of the stuffing as you want. I like a good firm pillow anyway, and the kapok fibers conform a bit to your head, so I haven't removed any. Best thing of all though is that I no longer get stuffed up as soon as I put my head down on the pillow. I always thought it was a reaction to the air in the bedroom or simply lying down that caused that reaction when I went to bed. I had even been sleeping with a carbon mask for the last couple weeks to combat the stuffed nose reaction. But since getting the kapok pillow, I've been mask-free. Woo hoo! I would highly suggest thinking about the contents of your pillow next time you're in the market for a new one. Now, off to assess the damage to my McQueen. I'm scared.

Result: The jacket seems to be structurally okay except for maybe a separation in the lining seam that might've already been there, but the smell is still there. Sigh. Might have to soak longer in vinegar or baking soda and repeat. Though I'll need to balance the machine out next time with a towel or something, as it was much too loud during the spinning cycle. Anyway, 'dry clean only' is a lie, and spraying perfume on/near a McQueen coat is a heinous crime. And that's all I have to say about that.

(Photo of a kapok tree via here)

Hoist up the John B's sail

As I'd been practically living in this perfect (100% silk!) (reversible!) Ursa Minor piece (a.k.a. my first piece of mail at the new place) since it arrived, I thought I'd give it a break and put on my previously-usual hot weather outfit (i.e. something mydearthing). However, after a half hour of freaking out, thinking I had thrown away this upcoming year's scholarship due to my failure to hand in a form on time, the stress combined with the heat forced a costume change, and this dress was, of course, the first pick. Meltdown (literally and psychologically) averted. Though I'm slowing giving up hope that this dress will ever be off of me long enough to wash...

Speaking of washing, do any of you kOs readers have a hemp shower curtain? I just purchased a couple from my favorite brick-and-mortar store (an environmental boutique called Carbon), and I washed and dried one before hanging it after discovering that it was about a foot too long for my unmovable shower curtain rod. After that, it was the perfect length, but it seems to have stretched out quite a bit again after getting soaked from my man's shower. Is it safe then to dry it on medium heat each time I wash it to reshrink it, or will that weaken the fibers too much? Leave a comment or shoot me an email if you know. And if you haven't heard of hemp shower curtains, I highly suggest looking into it. It's the only fabric curtain you can get without a liner, as the hemp is tightly woven enough that the water doesn't go through it. It does get soaked with each shower, so there is a bit of maintenance to it (i.e. you have to wring it out and make sure it has some air flow to dry it out, and it has to be washed every week or two to avoid any mold growth). But from the reviews I've read, the work is worth it, as there's absolutely no toxic chemicals in it or smells released from day one. Vinyl shower curtains are one of the worst things you could ever bring into your home because of the constant off-gassing of VOCs, and they aren't even recyclable when you inevitably have to throw it out. That, my friends, is what you call 'totally lame'.

Yiqing Yin, F/W 13/14

Without any new (real) Alexander McQueen to look forward to and Inbar Spector being on a bit of break enjoying being a new mother, I thought my sources for haute couture had been depleted. But thankfully I was wrong, as Yiqing Yin has unknowingly volunteered herself for the role with her F/W 13/14 couture collection, just shown in Paris. Phewf. Interestingly, though I immediately gravitate to pieces that belong on Björk (i.e. the first one), I'm particularly drawn to the last one. And I think my man knows why more than I do myself. For, though agreeing with me on the Björk-ness of the first dress and the Oscar-ness of the third, he said that the last one looked like a Japanese cherry blossom tree painting. So much better than my description ('it looks like bandages'). Anyone interested in a 'Mr. Buffy Leigh's Fashion Impressions' feature?

(Photos via Yiqing Yin's Facebook)

Third gender dressing

These two pieces from the graduate (from London College of Fashion) collection of Alexis Housden do two things. First, they illustrate how the runway can act as a bad change room for even the most beautiful of pieces, as I don't think these photographed well at all in the catwalk show, yet incredibly well in the editorial shots. Second, they provide a couple costume options for Sulpicia, as the mixture of tailored masculine shapes with feminine detailed fabrics and neutral colours create an androgynous aesthetic that is, as Alexis says, fashion for a 'third gender'. I.e. a portrait of a poet as a young (wo)(man). Perfect.

(Runway photos via UK Vogue, others via here)

Seabrook and Bent

While looking for photos of my friend's nephew's graduate collection from Monday's London College of Fashion BA catwalk show, I fell for a graduate collection which is the collaboration of two other students, namely Shanna Bent and Lucy Seabrook. Though each of them separately are nothing new, the twisted detailing, the layered suit jackets, the simple shapes, the laid back palette, and, yes, even the platform flip-flops, just all work together rather effortlessly. As for the collection being a collaboration, from what I can tell (and forgive me/correct me if I'm wrong), the design, development, and twisted pieces are Shanna's work, and the colour palette, tailoring and tailored pieces are Lucy's work. Being a bit anal myself and considering group academic projects to be the worst invention ever, I wonder how it would work to collaborate with someone on something so important as a final project. But collaborating with many others is how it typically works in the fashion world, so Shanna and Lucy have already got one foot solidly in the real world. And they have a great collection to prove it.

(Photos via UK Vogue)

Dubito ergo Cogito

These looks are from Zam Barrett's S/S 14 collection, currently being presented in Paris and introducing a few new configurations to Zam's arsenal. Love love love. I have two pairs of drop crotch pants in my closet, but both of them are wool, making them completely irrelevant for when you need some extra air flow most, e.g. a ridiculously out of place heat wave that keeps you from washing the two already sweat-through dresses reserved for extra hot weather. I'm sure these ones would do just the trick. 

Pre.Y.T.

I'm not sure if Ilaria Nistri calling this collection 'SS14 Pre|view Collection' (i.e. preview with a line in the middle of the word) means that it is a pre-collection to the full S/S 14 collection (as the title of the Vogue webpage suggests), or if the title of the collection is 'Pre|view'. Whatever it is, I love it. Simple, no fuss, suitable for any season, lovely palette. Just wish I could show more pieces, as most of the non-leather ones are styled with the leather ones. Click here to view the whole (pre-?)collection.

Wait a minute. S/S 14? By the time this collection is available, I should be done my thesis. And I've basically not even started. Yikes.

(Photos via Vogue.it)

Blooming fabric

Though I have now far out-stayed my welcome on the still off-gassing couch that has just been allowed out of its airing out room (six months after we bought it), I couldn't tear myself away from my comfy toxic spot as I was intently perusing the website of my newest favorite find. The designer of the fairy-like pieces you see here is Berlin-based Beatrice Oettinger. Beatrice brings a whole new meaning to eco clothing, as the details of her impregnated organza clothing are made of things you would find in your garden or nearby forest: peas, seeds, beans, herbs and flowers. Bits of birch bark also become a textile in Beatrice's hands.

Beatrice also brings a new meaning to convertible clothing with such pieces as her top made with young popular capsules that eventually open up to release the poplar fuzz (the process of which I'm well acquainted with, being a step away from a forest of poplar trees)...

...or a dress with Clematis vitalba seeds that eventually bloom. 

Brilliant. As I'm in decorating mode and have made the 2nd bedroom into a thesis/sewing room, I'm also intrigued by her 'textile bakery' pieces, decorative dresses made of flour and various bits of plant, some of which are made into light covers. 

Now that we have room on our patio for more than 5 pots, thanks to Beatrice I'm thinking that I should choose the next things we will grow based on their fashion potential. I think I'll start with some peas...