kaKofonie Of si(gh)lenS

Sunday Morning Coming Down

2012-01-29T09:35:00.001-07:00

I'm writing this as I await for my man to wake up from his slumber (the initiation of which was definitely not aided by a too-late Tim Hortons medium* double-double coffee), as I simply have to watch the last episode of the first season of Camelot before I can do anything else. Anyway, I can at least manage to pass on these photos on to you, teasers of the upcoming Barbara Í Gongini season which were in my inbox this morning. The first photo, as you can probably tell, is from the high-end line, while the second photo is from the Black-line, which, this time around, features even more basic basics such as jeans and, apparently, some chalk. I somehow don't find jeans with a plain tee very inspiring, but I have faith in Barbara, and will use this teaser to remain excited to see the whole collection, rather than being satisfied with these few photos. Also, I'm not sure what's going on with the blue outfit below, but I just wanted to give you a heads up that there will be blue. Blue!

*Tim Hortons has changed their coffee sizes, and so the beloved large double-double is now a medium double-double. Just doesn't have the same ring to it. Why, Tim, why?

Imperfect Beauty

2012-01-26T21:35:00.004-07:00

Remember Hartmann Nordenholz's 'oops-I-tucked-my-dress-into-my-underwear' collection? Well, this collection by Parsons and London College grad Melanie Anayiotos is that collection's first cousin. Or at least second cousin. And it should be pointed out that Melanie's collection is to be commended for its braveness, for Melanie's goes against decades of technological advances in cling-guard products and wrinkle-free fabrics. For all I know, Melanie has even used such a fabric to create her beautiful static-y creations. Miss Morissette, that is ironic. And, my friends, this is a beautiful dress.

(Photos via NJAL)

Urban Summer

2012-01-23T11:45:00.001-07:00

I'm sure this photo from the Summer 2012 collection of Brazilian designer Juliana Moriya was taken far far away from NY, but seeing it immediately transported me back to Brooklyn in the hot hot summer, specifically taking the 7 as far east as I dared without food and a large coffee in my hand. Though, in reality, that trip might've take place in the winter. Hmm.

(Photo via NJAL)

InAisce, F/W 12/13

2012-01-22T16:08:00.001-07:00

I had nearly forgotten the thrill of a new fashion week season, and of seeing a new collection so wonderful that I couldn't post it nearly fast enough. But my memory has now been gloriously jogged by InAisce's F/W 12/13 'Pilgrim' collection. Each photo of the lookbook is actually composed of two outfits, the left on a guy and the right on a girl. Perhaps it's just a coincidence, but the majority of the outfits on the male model incorporate leather or fur, and thus my cropping job predominately features her and not him (sorry, guy). That being said, I think this is my favorite InAisce collection by far, at least in how it's styled. And, while the gorgeous silhouettes and overall detailing are as to be expected, I quite appreciate the attention Jona has paid to the side and back profiles this time around (warning: gorgeous back draping below). The question is, why am I not in Paris to see this presentation tomorrow? Sigh.

(Photos via InAisce's Facebook)

Frequently re-orient the disoriented.

2012-01-21T11:09:00.001-07:00

1) I noticed the first time I saw kOs on an iPad that this blog is not optimized for mobile devices. And as, according to Google Analytics, the large number of you access this blog via mobile devices, that needs to be remedied. I looked up various tips on how to prepare a site for an iPad specifically, but without one to play around on, I can't really put those to use just yet. However, I found out that Blogger has an option to have a mobile version of each post, and likely some of you have noticed that I turned this on a couple days ago. Even though this option negates all the photo sizing and specific formatting I do, and just plain doesn't look as pretty as I'd like, it at least lets you see entire photos (albeit very small versions), and makes the text easier to read (if you're into reading words) without doing the two-fingered zooming thing. Please let me know what you think. And, though mobile users likely know this already, please take note that, at the bottom of each mobile version post, you can switch back to the desktop version. At least I can on my man's iPhone.

2) This week has been entirely bizarre. First of all, it was -40 at some point every day, meaning it was 40-50 degrees colder than last week. Starting today, however, it's going back up to nearly spring-like conditions. I'm telling you, the bunnies are thoroughly confused. Secondly, in a previous life, I would've called in sick to avoid walking through such cold to my place of employment; in this life, I simply put my layering skills to use. Thirdly, my man had a surgery consult on Monday, and knee surgery yesterday. Most people have to wait a year or more to have surgery, not to mention having to pay for said surgery. There are problems with the Canadian health system, but this week my house is not aware of them.

3) This collection by Central Saint Martins grad Minky Ha is based on capitalism. That's quite a loaded statement, if you think about it. Read more about it here.

(Photos via MUUSE.com, post title via Grey Nuns Community Hospital's tips to prevent falls, as posted in Unit 44)

Metropolis

2012-01-13T15:04:00.001-07:00

I find these pieces by Polish designer Kamila Gawronska Kasperska (great name, by the way) for the following three reasons. First of all, I can't help but love that bell-/funnel-shaped neck after Björk's McQueen jingle bell dress. Second, the intersection I have to cross to get from my bus stop to my work's front door has wind that rivals downtown Manhattan. So, I've been thinking I need a stylish way to keep my hair from turning into some sort of cyclone. An attached speed skater hood is the perfect solution. Thirdly, I've been reminded yet again that I must see Fritz Lang's Metropolis (which inspired this collection). I keep meaning to and can easily do so, as it's on Netflix (or at least was over Christmas). Perhaps after I take a little nap...At any rate, I'd totally wear the dress below on the right for any occasion, and would wear the onesie below on the left for the odd occasion when the urge to feel like Cogsworth as a matador arises.

(Photos via NJAL)

Pilgrimage

2012-01-12T15:27:00.001-07:00

Somehow I never connected the fabulous InAisce to the (makes-me-feel-a-little-uncomfortable) Sruli Recht. It makes perfect sense now, but that connection was not established in my grey matter until I received an invite to the Sruli Recht A/W 12 presentation in Paris, and noticed tiny print at the bottom that InAisce will also be presented at the same art gallery, at the same time. The world makes sense again. Except for the fact that I'll likely miss every InAisce show that I'm invited to. Sigh.

Anyway, this is a teaser photo of InAisce's A/W 12 collection, as posted on Facebook this morning. Looks like Jona is pressing on into the land of accessories, whilst attempting to make his models walk across the ocean. Perhaps that backpack is also a floating device...

Common Delusions

2012-01-10T22:25:00.002-07:00

The weird thing about the last week is that I've really wanted to blog. But I just can't seem to find things I want to post. I'm afraid it has something to do with the fact that I just don't get Mad Men and why everyone seems to think it's such a great show. It might just be a coincidence, but it seems like there's some sort of disconnect between me and fashion lately. That, and corporate fashion is dragging me down.

Anyway, as I've been picturing myself back in the classroom lately, I'm reminded of a common daydream/urge I often had back when I was sitting in a tiny room filled with desks and noisy air ducts. Sometimes, it was all I could do to not get out of my desk, curl up on the floor, and take a nap. Indeed, if I were to wear such a dress as this piece by Von Bardonitz to my next Latin class, I can't see how I couldn't be excused for such behaviour.

(Photo via NJAL)

Witold Szostak

2012-01-04T17:49:00.000-07:00

Today I was finally tracked down by the weird stomach thing that's been going around this holiday season. They say it's the Norwalk, but I had that way back when 'Norwalk' meant something (i.e. it meant you almost died, or at least wanted to die), and so far this strain just seems to be a waste of my time and the warmest January day in my city's history. At any rate, being home sick makes me appreciate the comforts of my cozy apartment, such as my lovely bed being directly in a sunbeam for most of the day's sunlit hours. One thing I will always long for as long as we live here, however, is a big ol' bathtub that I can actually fit in and relax when I'm feeling crappy. Like this one by today's Featured Seller on Etsy, Witold Szostak. This guy creates some fantastic stuff, and I definitely think the $7K price tag on his mini-ark bathtub is completely justifiable. Unfortunately, seeing as a free-standing bathtub would take up all the available space in the living room (and/or the whole apartment, as we'd get kicked out for not being able to make rent...), getting the fan too would be out of the question. Sigh.

I'd also like that clothes hanger behind him in the picture below, but that doesn't seem to be for sale in his Etsy shop, at least yet. My very first SHIN piece would look fantastic on that thing...

Happy New Plaid

2012-01-03T21:37:00.002-07:00

So, I realized that my life has quickly become rather good, as my main source of stress this holiday season was how to spend my Christmas money. Normally I have no problem spending money on clothes, but, as I had decided I wanted to replace my shapeless winter coat with something that fit my aesthetic better (or, at least just a little), I felt the need to choose well. After numerous painstaking hours spent away from what is shaping up to be the geekiest book I've read this side of Tolkien (REAMDE by Neal Stephenson), I narrowed down my choices to three coats. One was an eBay listing, which I never ascertained to be true Alexander McQueen, Burton McQueen, or McQ. With such a gamble, and the possibility of steep duties, this one was out of the running first. Which left me with more of a moral dilemma. Because one of the two coats vying for first place was from Canadian designer Natasha Thomas and her Montreal-based label, by THOMAS. You may have seen her gorgeous grey double-lapeled coat grace the front of NJAL and some other blogs, as it (and the collection as a whole) demands maximum attention. In fact, I've been meaning to post that grey coat for ages - it simply got buried in my mountain of bookmarks. At any rate, the coat that I was drawn to was a more subdued (and slightly cheaper) black wool trench/pea coat hybrid (see left). I could easily see myself wearing this piece for all three colder seasons. And, of course, it's right up my alley with it's designed-in-Canada-ness, made-in-Canada-ness, and shipped-from-Canada-ness.

However, and I'm almost embarrassed to say, in the end I was lured away by cheap Vivienne Westwood in a quiet tartan (see right). I've always had this fascination for plaid, but have learnt that I'm too shy to wear it in it's natural bright red form. However, in browns and purples (as the net-a-porter description claims it is), and in Westwood fashion, I'm sold.

Of course, mere hours after I handed over my Christmas money to purchase an extremely non-practical (i.e. only appropriate for Spring weather) coat, not only was the Westwood coat reduced by an additional 20% (meaning it's $80 less than I paid, and almost $500 less than the original price), but I also received a lovely email from Natasha Thomas informing me that I could purchase the by THOMAS coat at 30% off in the online shop with the sale code WINTERSALES. Sigh. Someone, please purchase the by THOMAS coat in my stead. And apologize to Natasha for me. I cannot resist affordable Westwood, especially when it allows me to end my misery and return to the world...of Warcraft.

Merry Christmas!

2011-12-24T10:46:00.000-07:00

Starting today, Josefin Strid has posted sample items on sale and has put all A/W 11 items on sale. I was all set to calculate the conversion of SEK to CDN, but then I saw that they only ship within the EU. Sigh. Some lucky (EU and size 36) girl will be getting the perfect sliced felted wool Chopin Coat at less than ten percent of the original price.

If you're looking for a cheaper Christmas present, a new Eluveitie song (which will be on their new album to be released in February) has just been posted (click here). You're welcome.

Anyway, I'm off to try to make my VCR work so I can watch It's A Wonderful Life while I wrap some presents, and then try to get my new Tiffany glasses adjusted so I can actually wear them. Though I feel like I'm cheating on Dame Westwood by wearing them...

Isobel

2011-12-22T23:10:00.003-07:00

While we're on the topic of my personal fashion icons, let me direct your attention to the indomitable Björk in McQueen. For those of you lucky enough to go to the Savage Beauty exhibit, this custom dress is of course a tweaked version of the S/S 2001 dress made out of lab slides that greeted you at the exhibit entrance, as seen above. I, in fact, was threatened to be thrown out of the exhibit (the second time I went) when I attempted to take a photo of it and it's counterpart. Me, a polite little Canadian. Gee whiz.

(Photo via Alexander McQueen Facebook, by Sølve Sundsbø)

After all this time?*

2011-12-20T21:59:00.004-07:00

Alan Rickman as Severus Snape is definitely a source of inspiration for how to dress in both drapey and fitted black clothing. I couldn't find a photo on the Internets showing the detail at the bottom of Snape's pants, but each leg has a row of buttons going up the side seam (you can see a shot during Harry's first Quidditch game in the first movie, in case you're wondering). As I have the same detailing at the bottom of my mono pants, I can attest to the usefulness of this, especially when you wear extra high Chucks. It also gives the impression of having built-in spats, which are always key when wanting to look uber stylish. Though, of course, Alan Rickman is always uber stylish. Particularly when he's surrounded by books in a Manhattan loft (see Seminar if you can!).

By the way, if you've been wanting to get your own SHIN piece like me, take a look at the SHIN webshop. They're only from the older collections, but they're 60-75% off! goodmorning - midnight also has a holiday sale on Etsy right now. Those wool dresses are excellent alternative business wear, if you ask me.

(Photo via Google Images)

*Always.

Modern Epidemic

2011-12-19T21:15:00.002-07:00

Why is boring and (often ill-)fitted considered business attire, and not interesting and drapey? Especially when it's Christmas time and the office is full of chocolates and cookies? And the lunchtime walk route is through a sea of identically dressed people? If I was the decider of the decisions, butterflysoulfire would dictate what 'business attire' means. Also, Christmas lights would replace every ugly light fixture, and everyone would get to listen to Henry Rollins (and Jamie Woon) at work.

Speaking of Christmas, to all of those who have found your way here because you're interested in ugly Christmas sweaters, welcome.

(Photos via NJAL)

Stefanie Nieuwenhuyse

2011-12-14T19:52:00.003-07:00

Now that I work in a corporate downtown environment, I'm thinking I should carry around a notebook with me for the sole purpose of recording my pet peeves and observations about corporate fashion. Because, in general, where I live, downtown fashion is not a pretty sight. Really, I'm thinking I should turn my growing mental list of pet peeves into a regular feature here (and perhaps ridiculous little children's stories to at least give each a humorous reason for their existence). But for now, I'd like to showcase how one should do animal skins. This is the work of Masters student (at Kingston University, alma mater of our Stacey Grant) and excellently named Stefanie Nieuwenhuyse. By laser-cutting pieces of discarded plywood, she has created these ridiculously wonderful garments that bio-mimic reptile skins. Because there's never a good reason to wear real reptile skins. I have a feeling Stefanie would feel right at home in the house of McQueen. Looking forward to see where this one goes!

(Photos via NJAL)

Brian Suter-Maury

2011-12-09T19:44:00.001-07:00

Ah, for at least a second, my very small corner of the world makes sense. I left my very unfulfilling job, had a very lovely fourth trip to my second home (NY, of course), and then started a new position that (gasp!) treats me like the mature and educated adult that I am AND rather fairly compensates me. I am also happy to report that working downtown in the corporate world (and beside a mall) has not in anyway changed my values, as my brief attempt to try and fit in with the shopping-during-lunch crowd promptly resulted in a panic attack and renewed contempt for fast fashion. I know I'm preaching to the choir here, but there is a reason why $27 pants are $27. (Dear Alice, please learn to sleep soon so your mother can make me new clothes.) Anyway, what this all means for you is that I can actually be inspired enough to blog again. And so, let me introduce you to my newest favorite, Swiss-born Parsons grad Brian Suter-Maury (found via NJAL). From this day forward, the land of women's tailored clothing will never be the same.

Malgorzata Dudek

2011-11-26T20:53:00.000-07:00

Here on kOs, I mostly stick to posting practical clothing that I would wear (at least given the right situation). However, sometimes I see something that I just can't stop looking at. I actually saw these pieces by Polish designer Malgorzata Dudek a few weeks ago in a couple of places on the Internets, with the most recent being a post by Queen Michelle. Her Highness focused on the incorporation of artist H. R. Giger's images into Malgorzata's S/S 12 collection, as she was already familiar with Giger's work. I, however, am completely ignorant of Giger and his work, and I find Malgorzata's dress with the 3D baby heads quite disturbing (although completely perfect for Lady Gaga...), and I may or may not have stopped reading the post at the point. However, Malgorzata popped back up on my radar today (via NJAL) and I was struck by the level of McQueen-like aesthetic in the non-baby head pieces (click on the photos below for full-length detail). This collection is quite a fantastic progression of Malgorzata's couture skills, and I'm definitely looking forward to seeing more from her.

mea gaudia narret,/dicetur si quis non habuisse sua.

2011-11-22T23:37:00.008-07:00

In case you've been wondering, a whole slew of things have been both improving my week and keeping me away from my blog and the blogosphere in general. My favorite distractions are as follows:

1) Music from Satyagraha. The videos I can find on the YouTubes are from the earlier Met production of the same opera. So Gandhi is played by someone else, and I think that the music is slightly faster (even though Philip Glass said that they sped it up a bit this time around). Nonetheless, I find the repetitive music and (Sanskrit) lyrics quite relaxing.

2) American Gods (The Tenth Anniversary Edition). I got a signed copy of this last time I was in NY when I saw Neil Gaiman at 92nd Street Y (eek!), but just got around to reading it now (seeing as my David Foster Wallace obsession has plateaued for a bit). This is my third or fourth time through the book, but, bless my bad memory, I can't yet tell where the added bits are (as it's 12,000 words longer than the original version). It's wonderful.

3) Homemade mulled cider. Yum.

4) My research. If things don't work out in the job world, my next move is to finally go back to school. And so, I have been planning out a thesis for the last couple months, which has quite quickly developed into something wonderfully exciting and possibly groundbreaking (and/or controversial), at least to the handful of scholars that actually care about this topic. And really, even if I don't go back to school for one reason or another, I'm planning on continuing my studies and writing as an independent researcher. This topic has been in the back of my head since I graduated with my BA in 2007, and it hasn't left me alone since. So I figured it's finally time to give it a go and get everything down on paper and out into the world. Expect to hear updates on the whole thing right here (whether you want to or not...).

5) Hoodies. I used to wear at least one hoodie a day, but with my work attire, that section of my wardrobe has been sorely neglected. Now, after seeing that beautiful one by Boris Bidjan Saberi and entering into the long dark winter, my eyes have been catching on every hoodie with potential. And this one from Audrey Cantwell's Ovate has lots of potential. Previous to the unorthodox complexgeometries stifler hoodie adopted from my man, I would only wear ones with zippers. I am now ready to wear a closure-less hoodie. I even have some funds in my PayPal account to help me make this next step in my growth as a hoodie connoisseur.

Marit Eken Kalager

2011-11-21T11:35:00.004-07:00

The last week has been so ridiculously busy that I haven't even been able to visit my favorite blogs and sites that I normally devote my morning to. I'm immensely happy that I took a couple seconds to reconnect with the Internets today, however, as I discovered Norwegian designer Marit Eken Kalager (via NJAL). Marit creates these 100% wool structured garments with a knitting machine and the felting process. And, while the photos don't quite showcase how spectacular I think they'd look on, I think you can appreciate the general romantic-(and cozy-)monk/nun feel of her work. Or at least I can. Marit also has a webshop, so it's probably good that I can't figure out how to use it.

Satyagraha

2011-11-19T22:59:00.003-07:00

I saw one of the most intriguing and visually/aurally stunning things today, being (the Met Opera's Live in HD screening of) Philip Glass' opera, Satyagraha. First of all, it's about Gandhi. Second, it's sung in Sanskrit and, more precisely, the text consists of lines from the Bhagavad Gita. Third, it has an incredibly extravagant stage and abstract collection of props controlled by the skills ensemble, who are also part of the cast. Fourth, only a few (fragmentary) subtitles are provided for what is being sung, and these subtitles are actually (and rather brilliantly) incorporated into the stage and props via projections. Fifth, if everyone goes and sees this opera and keeps it running for years to come, the newspaper industry (and, subsequently, the recycling industry) will never die. Not to mention the packing tape industry.

I'll actually be in NY for the last live performance of this opera, but, alas, I already have tickets to a nerdy (i.e. Classics-related) event at BAM. If you can see it before it ends, do try, as I definitely think this is the type of thing that would be best experienced live (especially to really grasp the size of those newspaper puppets). But, then again, you'd never get to see up close the damage that stage makeup does to the collar of a white shirt.

(Photo by Sara Krulwich, via NYTimes.com)

Rachel Antonio, A/W 11/12

2011-11-14T10:48:00.001-07:00

I'll be making the not-so-long march into the east once again in a couple of weeks, and I'm really quite excited to do my Christmas shopping in NY. Though the reality is that I probably won't be able to afford more than a I ♥ NY magnet for everyone, I'm thinking it's time to actually go into those big famous stores in Manhattan that you see in the movies all the time. Like Tiffany's and whatnot. But I feel like I should be wearing something slightly more glamorous than what my closet can offer. And so I've decided that I'd like Scottish designer Rachel Antonio to make my NY #4 wardrobe. Her A/W 11/12 collection features Scottish tweeds, wool, and crepe de chine, a.k.a. ingredients for a warm and stylish trip. I'm thinking that the top left outfit will be perfect for seeing Jamie Woon, the next outfit down will make my evening with Alan Rickman even more wonderful, and the outfit below will do double duty for finding the perfect gift and for spending an afternoon in my happy place (the Met). Sigh.

(Photos via NJAL)

Paper or plastic?

2011-11-13T21:23:00.000-07:00

In truth, you'll need paper (i.e. kleenex) to watch this film (by Ramin Bahrani) about a plastic bag. Narrated by the incomparable Werner Herzog, scored by Kjartan Sveinsson (of Sigur Rós), and via Coilhouse.

Complimentary Lining

2011-11-10T22:33:00.000-07:00

The #1 item on my Winter 11/12 want list? This wool/polyamide/cashmere vest by Thomas Tait which makes me rather speechless. And the #2 item? This hoodie by Boris Bidjan Saberi, which may in fact be the best hoodie I've seen yet. Both available at Reborn (with free shipping this weekend).

chloé comme parris

2011-11-09T10:38:00.002-07:00

Another Canadian label is now on my radar, teaching me to beware of judging a label by their name (though, in my defense, a name is a label...). I came across the work of sister duo Chloé and Parris Gordon when searching for photos of Laura Siegel's show at this last Toronto Fashion Week, but immediately thought the label name, chloé comme parris, seemed like they were being a bit too blunt about not being a Paris or London Fashion Week-worthy label. Little did I know that the moniker is based on the designer's first names. Sigh. Anyway, the Internets seems to be all happy about ccp's move away from the more goth-friendly look with their S/S 12 collection, but it's that dark and depressing mood of the A/W 11 collection (via NJAL) that really gets me happy. I could post the majority of the photos here as they all look like outfits I would wear a time or two. But I really want to focus on my favorite piece. It's the perfect combination of my Patricia Ayres Artisanal Coat, business casual (notice the turned up cuffs?), and something medieval. Why don't I have warm pieces that aren't winter jackets? I want this.

ccp also has a webshop featuring items from, I believe, the A/W 10 collection that are all fantastically on sale. I would have to look into their sizing a bit closer before ordering anything, but they have some great stuff. A blazer with the Rad Hourani aesthetic, shoulder cut-outs, AND ribbed cuffs? Oh, and it closes with magnets (do not hug your VHS copy of 10 Things I Hate About You while wearing this...). Sisters Gordon, I give you 10 out of 10.

Dori Tomcsanyi, Winter 11/12

2011-11-08T12:34:00.000-07:00

And speaking of Dori Tomcsanyi, Dori has just posted her Winter 11/12 collection AND has put it up in her webshop to order. Rather thoughtful of her, especially as she seems to price her pieces fairly low and in sizes other than 'S'. However, seeing as I just booked another trip to you-know-where, I think I'll have to wait for the next collection to be posted so that this one goes on sale (as the S/S 11 is now, and at quite a discount too). Sigh. Anyway, I'll be checking back on all of the above pieces. The new blazer, for instance, doesn't catch my eye like her other one, but I can't help but think that waterproofing the bottom of a jacket is never a bad thing. Her one piece 'trouser dungerees' make me think I should be looking in the automotive section of the job ads. My still unrequited resolve to get some silk pajamas, now strengthened after seeing Sofia Coppola pose in some in Vogue, makes me consider that robe-inspired piece, which somehow is actually a lined winter jacket. And that full-length hand-knit bamboo/cotton dress! I am still waiting for Dori to go back to the neutrals of that brilliant S/S 10 collection, but even someone as colour-challenged as I am can find something to like in Dori's bright palette. And with the time change meaning less sunlight while I'm awake, a little colour doesn't hurt (you'll have to go see the whole collection on her site to get the extent of the colour I've still managed to largely leave out, as my picks are the neutral ones of the bunch).

MUUSE

2011-11-06T17:10:00.006-07:00

This morning I stumbled upon an interesting website called MUUSE which features a fantastic selection of new fashion grads from various schools around the world, and which allows these emerging designers to sell their designs. I know, not a new idea, as NJAL and ARCADEMI both do that. MUUSE also does a similar thing to FashionStake, where a piece needs a certain amount of votes before it's put into production and available for ordering. Such a design might not even exist as a sample before it gets the go ahead from MUUSE's visitors and potential customers, and may only be a conceptual drawing until that point. However, the thing MUUSE does that is different and, I must admit, a wee bit perplexing is that MUUSE employs their own duo of tailors to both sew and ship (in/from their studio in Copenhagen) every piece that is ordered, meaning that the designer's involvement stops at the design. It may just be that I'm too used to my favorite designers on Etsy who design/market/sew/ship/everything their own designs. And I know that a lot of designers don't have the time or money (and sometimes don't have all the required skills) to be involved in the production aspect of their work. But I can't help but think that it's a bit weird to have the same two tailors recreate (with permission) the works of dozens of different designers, especially when it's not a mass production/sweatshop situation. And, having said that, I have no idea how the fashion world works outside of Etsyland. Thoughts?

Anyway, these are a couple of my favorite pieces that have received enough votes to be available to purchase from MUUSE. The above is a waxed cotton origami coat by London College of Fashion grad Holly Somers. I could see myself wearing this nearly every day (especially since I never got a hold of that blazer by kOs favorite Dori Tomcsanyi). And the below is a wool jacket by Antwerp Fashion Academy grad Nathalie Fordeyn. I quite like the idea of the collection, entitled 'Puppets', though the person-on-a-string look may mean I wouldn't get a lot of wear out of it. Though maybe it would be perfect for the winter, as it definitely has some room for a nice thick scarf in there. Hmm...

Shako Nikva

2011-10-26T14:23:00.002-06:00

When I saw these photos on Fashion156 last week, I immediately decided that I did not want to post anything else until I got my hands on them. They are from the S/S 12 lookbook (if you could call it that) of Georgian designer Shako Nikva. Everything about these photos is perfect: the dog, the location (which simultaneously reminds me of the Okanagan and the underwater highway in the Columbia River), and that gorgeous suit/dress, complete with a hole for a wayward ponytail. Sigh.

(Photos by Mari Nakani Mamaskhlisi)

Josefin Strid, A/W 11/12

2011-10-22T11:03:00.002-06:00

Okay class, as a mid-term review, Swedish designer Josefin Strid (whose A/W 09/10 maxi dress will still be involved in inspiring my Vivienne recreation/masterpiece, if ever I get to it...) has kindly provided us with one simple piece that combines the following topics we've covered:

1) Aprons (see here and here, for example).
2) Men in skirts (see whatever).
3) Draping (pick a random kOs link, and chances are you'll see some draping nearby).

This comes from Josefin's A/W 11/12 'La Pianiste' collection (inspired by Elfriede Jelinek's book, The Piano Teacher) which is filled with gorgeous minimalistic/school-(or piano-)teacher pieces (which are mainly wool), such as the long dress below (which would give a whole different tone to 'whatever'...). These pieces are already available as made-to-order in Josefin's webshop, by the way (just remember the prices are in SEK).

Josefin also created a limited edition part of the collection which contains some fantastic looking pieces that make me think of Gareth Pugh's sliced dress. There's a brilliant strapless ballgown and a bustle-y skirt, but I believe those two pieces are made of leather. I am more than happy, however, to have to post this full length wool coat to demonstrate the sliced aesthetic. Rather depressing inspiration behind it, but quite a lovely effect, no?

(Photos via NJAL, Josefin's Facebook, and webshop.)

Whatever

2011-10-21T10:42:00.004-06:00

You know how 'whatever' was such a powerful word when you were a teenager? It was always the perfect response to any question, but depending on who you said it to and with what inflection, its effects could range from being admired by your peers, (and/)or grounded for the weekend. And I imagine it would've been even more powerful if you were wearing a long black dress whilst saying it. I don't know about you, but a long black dress that was not expressly purchased as a bridesmaid's dress (don't ask) did not enter my wardrobe until very recently (thanks to ArtLab and Alexandra Groover, in fact). My question now is whether I could recreate the same teenage angst if I got a hold of one of these unisex/androgynous pieces from Ukrainian-Russian label WHATEVER, from designer Alexandra Burzum (not to be confused with Varg Vikernes'/Count Grishnackh's black metal band) and art-director Sheina Miretskaya (found via NJAL). Actually, I know I just provided you the link, but could you do me a favour and not visit the WHATEVER website? I have a feeling this is going to be my new favorite label (did I mention they use only natural materials?), and there's a lot more photos I'd love to post here from previous collections. I mean, you can do whatever you want, but, whatever.

And speaking of metal, if you haven't been to a black metal or folk metal show and are wondering what it would all entail, below is the standard look you'd see up on stage. Some days just aren't complete without seeing a guy with gorgeous long hair wearing a skirt or dress and headbanging.

Anachronism

2011-10-20T10:28:00.001-06:00

An anachronism — from the Greek ανά (ana: up, against, back, re-) and χρόνος (chronos: time) — (ism: act state and condition) is an inconsistency in some chronological arrangement, especially a chronological misplacing of persons, events, objects, or customs in regard to each other.*

I don't know what this mini-collection from Kristofer Kongshaug is about (found via NJAL), but it doesn't really matter, does it? And that might be the point, given their collective title. Perhaps each piece is a B-side of sorts from previous collections. Or perhaps the anachronism no longer exists because I slightly altered the order of the photos from how they're presented on NJAL. Hmm...At any rate, I really want to see the seam work for each of these pieces for some reason.

In other news, Inbar Spector's online shop is finally open! Beware, for she takes PayPal...

*Ah, good ol' Wikipedia. Scourge of professors (and/or students) everywhere.

Laura Siegel, S/S 12

2011-10-18T23:03:00.004-06:00

While I have never before wanted to go to Toronto (at least to my recollection), I would have preferred being there this afternoon than my hometown. The reason being that former kOs-interviewee Laura Siegel finally resurfaced and was showing her S/S 12 collection at Toronto Fashion Week. Laura spent six months in India and South-East Asia to collaborate with artisans, such as those in the Dhebaria Rabari Tribe, to come up with the dye work, embroidery, and textiles within this very airy collection. Quite a different direction from her nomadic graduate collection, but still focusing on sustainable creations. Rather lovely, don't you think? Not to mention perfect, and making me willing to forego my usual blacks and greys. I am going blonde, after all. Also, for the second time I find myself thinking about Libby from LOST as a result of seeing pretty floaty island-ish clothing. I didn't even like her that much as a character, so I'm not really sure what's going on there. What I am sure of, however, is that bad bridesmaids dresses have given sea-foam as a colour an undeserved bad name, as Laura and Inbar Spector have both proved its worth.

(Photos via FDCC's Facebook)

and no dream is altogether a dream

2011-10-15T08:58:00.002-06:00

You know it'll be a good weekend when you wake up to photos of Wolfgang Jarnach's newest collection. And, of course, a mountain of concord grapes awaiting their demise (what should I make today - focaccia or granita?). And so. Wolfgang has entitled the collection (presented at this past LFW's Vauxhall Fashion Scout) 'traumnovelle // dream story', inspired by Arthur Schnitzler's novella of the same name. I have no idea what the novella is about, but the 'girls' side of the collection has a very operatic feel to me, as well as a blatant desire to hide. It's really an interesting juxtaposition to have a completely sheer over-dress beside a dress that hides both the shape and half the face of its wearer (I'd love to try on both of these pieces), or a corset beside a mound-ish cape. The 'boys' side of the collection (modeled by Wolfgang's brother), on the other hand, is more runway than opera, with gorgeous tailored jackets and a romantic palette perfect for a midnight garden party. I'm especially intrigued by the half-shirt/half-smoking jacket piece. The hybrid may simply be suggested by its styling, but in my mind that's really how it's constructed. Ah Wolfgang, you remain my favorite German designer. And have I mentioned that I wear my scarf from you nearly every cold day?

(Photos via NJAL)

Alexandra Groover, S/S 12

2011-10-14T21:21:00.000-06:00

I'm sure some of you have already seen the latest video from kOs favorite Alexandra Groover showcasing her S/S 12 'LIFE' collection, no thanks to my preoccupied self. But today Alexandra finally posted some still photos that are a bit more lookbook-ish. These two are my favorite pieces, being the Pinnate Cardigan (above) and the Arcuate Dress (below).

This photo, however, featuring the Alate Dress/Skirt, is what demanded my full attention. Reminds me of an Italian Renaissance portrait, though I couldn't say which one exactly I'm thinking of. Or am I thinking of Angelica Houston in Ever After? Same difference, right?

An Alexandra Groover online shop is coming soon! You've been warned. By the way, can you believe it's nearly been two whole years since I interviewed Alexandra? Time flies...

Conchita Perez

2011-10-13T10:19:00.001-06:00

There's something about Spanish-born and London-based designer Conchita Perez's work that makes me want to meet up with her for coffee and a bagel (with cream cheese). I have a feeling we would both prefer to live in another time, or within some epic novel. And there are so many different techniques and styles used throughout her collections, that her lookbooks look more like editorials comprised of a few different designers who all have a similar aesthetic. The lookbook for her 'Impression' collection in particular rather strongly reminds me of the stock photos seen in the merchandise created for the Met's McQueen exhibit. Rather fitting, in fact, as Conchita worked for McQueen after graduating in 2003. There's just something about these pants (above) that make me want to take up jousting or start quoting Shakespeare or something. And though I'd prefer not wearing the big pirate belt with the pants below, I have a feeling these would introduce a little swagger into my step either way. Speaking of pirates, I'm off to do some more reading. Somehow my Latin and Greek research has led me to cross-dressing pirates in Cervantes...

(Photos via NJAL)

The Iteration

2011-10-11T09:52:00.001-06:00

It appears that I'm most intrigued by clothing patterns that look simple on paper, but have great complicated theories behind them. (Remember Julian Robert's subtraction cutting method?) Hence why Russian designer Lisa Shahno's 'The Iteration' collection (found via NJAL) has me going repeatedly though the photos. The collection, created by squares divided by diagonals (the number of which depends on the piece), isn't based on origami or architectural ideas in the brick-and-mortar structure sense, as you might expect from looking at looking at the finished piece, but rather is based on the Fractal Cosmology theory, i.e. the possible architectural idea behind the structure of the universe. Whoa, right? I'm hoping that that winter jacket's connection to the universe means that it would thus magically/scientifically protect its wearer from any weather. Because I hear that my hometown is in for our coldest winter yet (for the 5th year in a row...). Why couldn't I live in a different fractal?

Building Blocks

2011-10-09T20:35:00.000-06:00

Question time: We all know that too many people wear leggings as if they were pants. But, would you wear pants as leggings? This could solve the problem I was considering having when a pair of '07 Alexander McQueen cropped pants (or long shorts) were on eBay at an extremely low price even just a couple hours before the end of the auction. Because, if you know me, you know I do not wear shorts outside of my apartment. However, if the shorts were (vintage) McQueen, I would make a special exception and hope to find a styling option that was suitable for my general aesthetic. The problem is, it's now fall and I hate the tights-and-shorts combo with a(n almost unhealthy degree of) passion. However, as indirectly suggested to me by New Zealand designer Sherie Muijs (found via NJAL), could layering pants underneath a shorter pair of pants be the solution? And what about under skirts and dresses, for that matter? My head says no, but my heart has yet to speak up. Any opinions?

Barbara Casasola

2011-10-07T22:38:00.000-06:00

This is how you do the traditional S/S fare right. Care of Barbara Casasola, born in Brazil, educated by Central Saint Martins, and found via NOTCOUTURE. I like how the last dress above is basically styled exactly how I wore my perfect Verlaine kaftan too long ago. And this dress? Absolutely brilliant.

no cloud, but the crystal body*

2011-10-05T10:53:00.000-06:00

Yesterday was a little awkward for me in terms of blogging, as it was the day of the Alexander McQueen S/S 12 presentation. Or, more accurately, Sarah Burton's Alexander McQueen S/S 12 presentation. I mean, I wanted to blog, and I did like some of the pieces (a few were a little too boudoir-only for my tastes). However, I know that, realistically, if the label was not called 'Alexander McQueen', I wouldn't have even bothered looking at the photos, just as with the majority of the labels that show at Paris and Milan. I also couldn't help but picture Kate Middleton walking down the runway in most of the pieces, and I'm a little bit bitter about that. And so, if you're wanting to see the collection and haven't yet, head on over to the McQueen website to see the video. That's really the best way to experience the collection so that you can see the corsetry and peplum details in the back, as well as the shoes. And the end with all the models lined up in colour blocks looks pretty.

Anyway, what we're seeing here is something a bit more Lee McQueen-ish. These are the gorgeous creations of Danish designer Dennis Lyngsø (found via NJAL). I have a feeling there are a lot more photos to be found that I'd want to post from Dennis' collections, as his webpage alludes to 'and essential array of lavish dresses, tailored shirts, [and] constructed skirts.' But I must continue reading this 35-page article on Ezra Pound and H.D., or I'll feel like I'll never get this mountain of reading done.

*Ezra Pound, The Pisan Cantos

Kristofer Kongshaug, S/S 12

2011-10-03T21:14:00.001-06:00

Now that I've identified what I'm (tragically) allergic to and have (sadly) eliminated the offending culprit from my daily routine,* I can confidently say that my judgement is not impaired, and thus I can make the important decision of what the best collection of the S/S 12 season is. Without question, it is that of Kristofer Kongshaug. He's returned to that sharp and unexpected tailoring which first caught my eye nearly two years ago, whilst adding some additional surprising details. The exaggerated shirt tail hems, slit cuffs on the jackets, and superimposed garter detailing give classic office wear the update it needs. And those floor length dresses are perfect for translating Sappho in. I'm not sure how wearable those dresses with leg braces would be, especially when sitting, and they definitely wouldn't work for someone who crosses their legs. But you should never ever ever cross your legs. And maybe that's exactly what Kristofer was getting at with this collection. I'd even propose that the leg brace KK dress should be a middle or high school uniform to train girls while they're young, so they don't end up having vein problems in their 20s. Just a thought.

Oh, this is my new favorite outfit. I couldn't see why I'd want to wear anything else if I had it.

(Photos via Kristofer Kongshaug Facebook)

*Soy chai lattes. If it weren't grape and rosemary focaccia season, I'm not sure what reason there would be to get up in the morning now.

"They could walk, if they would, unseen by all eyes in this world beneath the sun, and they could see things in worlds invisible to mortal men..."*

2011-10-02T09:25:00.003-06:00

You know, I almost thought I had tricked myself into believing I was over hoodies. I have been banned from wearing my marriage hoodie after nearly crying when my elbow poked through the material, and the two (attempted) substitutes have both fallen short in some way (granted, it's me, and not them). And at my new place of employment, I'm not allowed to wear anything with a hood, even on casual Friday. And so, my plethora of hoodies now lay at the bottom of the various piles of clothing and dirty laundry in my apartment, something that would never have happened say six months ago.

But then I saw this Nazgûl inspired jacket by NY-based designer Joseph Madeo (via NOTCOUTURE). And I very quickly was reminded that I still want that ArtLab hood, and I still need that shell hooded jacket from Alexandra Groover. And when you need something, that's a responsibility.

*J.R.R. Tolkien, The Silmarillion (London: Harper Collins, 1999), 346.

Vivienne Westwood, S/S 12

2011-10-01T11:22:00.000-06:00

Okay, so as not to completely break from tradition, here's the third part of the YOHJ JUN VIV trio. Vivienne Westwood always surprises me by not surprising me, if you know what I mean. She's one of the few designers to have a clear and steady aesthetic (not to mention manifesto) that has followed her through at least the majority of her career. Indeed, you and I both could've picked these out as being Viv's if the photos had fallen from the sky without any captions or return addresses. Having said that, one new thing she introduced for the S/S 12 season is the oversized corset. Brilliant and unexpected, but obviously Westwood. Sigh.

(Photos via UK Vogue)

Junya Watanabe, S/S 12

2011-10-01T11:07:00.002-06:00

Last night I was questioning my decision to not wait till today to write the semi-annual 'YOHJ JUN VIV' post, seeing as I've already posted about Yohji, haven't posted about Viv, and the newest from Junya has just hit the Internets. But after seeing the S/S 12 collection from Junya, I think a separate post is entirely justified as I have more than a few words to say. And I need to live with the fact that no one else may find the 'YOHJ JUN VIV' title humourous anyway (think back to learning your primary colours...ROY G BIV...no?).

And so. My head continued to spin whilst flipping through the photos of this collection, as over half way into it, all that had been offered was bird hats and lace and/or chiffon dresses that are vintage- and muumuu- inspired. In short, stuff I know will be raved about by a certain teenage blogger. Thankfully, there were a few chiffon jackets thrown over top of some of these dresses (as seen above) that gave me hope that there would be something at the end of the runway that I could latch onto.

And how. I have to say, looking back on all my reviews of Mr. Watanabe's collections, he really does outerwear the best. Or, at any rate, I like his outerwear the best. So I suppose it makes sense that I'm a bigger fan of the A/W collections. Anyway, thank you, Junya, for creating these lovely trench coats. That iridescent material is quite lovely. We all know I'm a fan of the trench/cape hybrid, and you've taken them to the next level. Though I would wear non-white long sleeves with the short sleeved cape. Perhaps some mydearthing armwarmers...It is fall, after all.

(Photos via UK Vogue)

Yohji Yamamoto, S/S 12

2011-09-30T19:35:00.000-06:00

Mr. Yamamoto had so much going on in his S/S 12 that my head is spinning a bit. Or that might be from the CLR fumes at work. Anyway, whilst going through the thirty-six looks, I kind of forgot that I was looking at one designer's collection, as I was seeing some Victor & Rolf, Vivienne Westwood, Comme des Garçons, Gary Graham, Chanel, and Cindy Lou Who. In short, there's something for everyone to like (and, yes, if you're the glass-is-half-empty kind of person, something for everyone to dislike). And I really like these. I particularly feel the need to have a skirt that's business in the front, party in the back.

(Photos via UK Vogue)

Yang Li

2011-09-30T10:21:00.002-06:00

To continue on the apron obsession, my vote today is for this S/S 12 minimalistic piece (which I suppose is more of a smock than an apron...) from Beijing-born, Central Saint Martins educated, and UK-based designer Yang Li. The back collar, for lack of a better term, is seen throughout the collection, and I quite like it. I also quite like the outfit below, even though I'm not entirely sure what's going on. The same could be said of my outfit yesterday though, so I obviously appreciate the confusing (and androgynous) layered look. Is it a surprise that Yang was previously an intern for Gareth Pugh?

(Photos via UK Vogue)

Where are they now?

2011-09-29T09:30:00.006-06:00

I've been sorely neglecting my duties of keeping you updated on ol' kOs favorites, so I thought I'd combine three such updates into one neat package. First up is fashion grad Stacey Grant. We last visited her over a year ago while she was studying for her MA at Kingston University. Well, Stacey graduated and has just accepted a position as a lecturer for Fashion Design at the University of Wales. Congratulations, Stacey! This is good news both for her and for future designers. Oh, how I still want this dress of Stacey's...

Second up is Becca McCharen's Chromat. It's only been a couple of months since we last saw the cagey aesthetic of this NY-based label, but the S/S 12 collection lookbook has been out for a couple of weeks already, and it's time you see it. While the A/W 11 collection was comprised primarily of accessories, S/S 12 features stand-alone pieces of clothing that you can go out to brunch with your parents in, while still getting that blatant look of disapproval from anyone over sixty (go to the Chromat Facebook to see more). What I'm loving most from the collection though is Chromat's first foray into swimwear. That is how a bikini should be done, as far as I'm concerned.

And last up is Inbar Spector. We last saw Inbar in about 1859, or thereabouts, when she graciously answered some of my questions. Well, as you may have seen posted by Queen Michelle, Inbar has finally put out another collection, which was just shown at last week's Vauxhall Fashion Scout portion of LFW. At first I thought that the collection was a huge departure from her previous work, but after seeing the entire collection on Inbar's (updated) website, I can see that she's simply added even more intricacies into her aesthetic by upping the opulent factor, and has thus even moreso honed her talent for creating couture. Make sure you double click to see the gorgeous details, and go to Inbar's site to watch the runway video. I'd definitely wear that seafoam swan-ish dress (seafoam!), and it goes without saying that I can still see Björk wearing every single piece of Inbar's. Sigh.

Ladies, I'm so proud.

Gareth Pugh, S/S 12

2011-09-28T20:45:00.001-06:00

I'm supposed to be preparing for my meeting with my future MA advisor tomorrow morning, but I had to post these distracting photos now so that they're off my desktop. I have to say, I just love Gareth Pugh's S/S 12 collection. The 3D detailing of the necklines and shoulders is fantastic. Though the vertical slat pieces look completely unwearable, they do answer the question of what you could possibly do with those air vent covers if you just couldn't afford a new dress, à la Miss O'Hara. And I love the lining of my new favorite piece (below). Looks like the painting I did on the wall in my old bedroom.

(Photos via UK Vogue)

Can I

2011-09-28T09:45:00.001-06:00

I have something to discuss with you. I know I've (quite recently) complained about other blogs and websites changing. And I know I've shared with you my wish to stay in the Dark Ages and not keep up with technology and whatnot. But Blogger has just got some pretty sweet new templates that I'm tempted to use. kOs would look quite different, but an update would hone the modern and clean look that I was originally going for and look more grown-up in general. I'm not sure how it would change all the fun stuff I have in the sidebar, or if I'll have any freedom to change the background colour and whatnot, so there might be a bit of a transition phase. So, what do you think? I'm hoping you'll like it. Here's a pretty S/S 12 Limi Feu sweater dress as a peace offering just in case. Be sure to check out the rest of the collection in case you're into executive jesters and Gwen Stefani.

(Photo via UK Vogue)

Symbolic Evidence

2011-09-27T11:00:00.000-06:00

I've been feeling all out of sorts these last couple days, as I'm apparently bored with my coffee, can't seem to handle the foods I normally eat (or perhaps the air I normally breathe), and I've confused my own brain by switching from only reading fiction to only reading academic journals. Add to the mix the horrible confirmation of my suspicion that Jonsi's beautiful jacket has indeed been cut into pieces (as seen in the 'Klippa' video, and I think I'm in need of a walk along the ocean whilst clothed in a a gorgeous and yet comfy dress. I have a feeling this one by UK designer Ana Every (found via NJAL) would set things right.

A napron

2011-09-26T11:15:00.000-06:00

In case you couldn't tell, I just didn't want to bump down the new Verlaine collection(s) with a new post this weekend. However, I think it's time for something new, and I do believe an ArtLab creation will fill the first post spot rather well. Apron dresses keep popping up on my radar, making me think that it's time I got one. And it would definitely have to be this ArtLab one, with it's clean cut, pockets, and asymmetrical bustle detail. Having the top portion removable (with snaps) is quite brilliant (see below). Of course I'd ask Patricia to switch out the leather strap for a canvas or elastic one. I also wonder if it's possible to make a winter-friendly apron with that gorgeous boiled wool she uses for her artisanal coat. By the way, is it weird that I hate halter dresses but like aprons? Hmm...

Il pleure dans mon coeur/Comme il pleut sur la ville.*

2011-09-22T21:26:00.004-06:00

Okay, I completely blame academia as a whole for me not sensing the second that the following two lookbooks were posted. And I profusely apologize for being unable to share them with you until this moment. Now, let's move on.

What you're seeing above is the S/S 12 collection from that magical mythical Lower East Side label known as Verlaine. My head is all fuzzy with Latin and hagiography and whatnot, but it seems to me that the collection turned out a wee bit different from the mood board and photos of the muslin samples that I saw in June. Which is in no way a bad thing, as I am extremely happy with how the Shakespearean-inspired jacket turned out (see below), for instance. There was a swatch of the eyelet tape on said mood board, but only drawings of how it was going to be used. I couldn't have imagined a better outcome. And that long flowy dress? Sigh. The collection as a whole is very distinctly Verlaine, with their perfect method of gathering and draping that doesn't add bulky volume to the sleek silhouettes. While the geniuses at Verlaine have thankfully brought some sanctity and sanity (i.e. the colour black) to the oft-too bright S/S season, this collection brings to the Verlaine table for the first time not just elaborate dye experiments, but a couple of prints and white pieces. As you know my bias leads me to post mainly monochromatic things here, I now put the responsibility on you to go to the Verlaine site to view these such pieces. They look better on a white background anyway.

And now, after all that about just wanting to post black pieces, I introduce to you the brand new basic line from Verlaine, V Verlaine. As it's not produced in NY like the mainline, but rather in Bali, it is set to be within a more affordable range, and consists of cotton and jersey pieces that you'd want to wear everyday (really, I wanted to take home the entire set of samples when I saw them in June). Rest assured that the Verlaine team is still very involved in the V line (indeed, I have a sneaking suspicion that having the production far away from NY is a convenient excuse for the extremely charming founder of Verlaine to frequently get away from the busy city and visit his friends in a beautiful location), and they are very excited about giving more people the opportunity to own their own Verlaine piece. As everyone should.

*Poetry provided by Paul Verlaine (1844-1896).

Shopping List

2011-09-21T21:44:00.001-06:00

- 1 twisted dress long

- 1 twisted dress short
- 1 scarf jacket
- 2 robe dresses (1 silk, 1 jersey)
- series of small walls (optional)

Julia and Ben, I do believe you've stolen my heart.

Now, does anyone here consider themselves up to date on the latest hagiography scholarship?

(Photos via NJAL)

Alice Palmer (for Jordan Baker)

2011-09-20T11:27:00.001-06:00

So, for whatever reason, I just read The Great Gatsby. I know, that's probably a blasphemous thing for an avid reader like myself to say. It probably would've happened sooner if I weren't so obsessed with reading everything by David Foster Wallace lately, but here we are. And so. This morning it struck me that there was very little description of the clothing the characters wore. I suppose that's not entirely odd, as it was written in the period it's set in, so there was no need to create the period for its contemporary readers. Womenswear in the 20s was so fascinating though, so I would've liked some visual cues, particularly during the scenes of Gatsby's parties. However, when perusing some non-familiar designers who have shown thus far at LFW, I think I've discovered what the character Jordan Baker might've worn. She is described at some point as wearing all clothing including fancy gowns as if they were her tennis playing wear, and in at least two passages she appears to be balancing some invisible thing on her chin. With that in mind, I present to you a few spectacular pieces from Alice Palmer's S/S 12 collection. Isn't Alice a lovely name?

(Photos via UK Vogue)

No one ever knew who Gatsby was

2011-09-18T10:19:00.001-06:00

One glance at my cluttered desktop, and you'll see that I have a slight obsession with button-ups at the moment. I've always had a thing for just slightly oversized men's button-ups (especially short-sleeved ones), so I'm rather liking these unique pieces from UK designer Brett le Bratt (found via Etsy). How could you not go for a button-up with side pockets?!

I'm also a fan of the oversized sheer button up for the ladies. However, most of the ones available these days are cropped and boxy and, in truth, I likely wouldn't purchase one for myself to avoid the risk of being mistaken for a hipster around these parts. But I think if I could find a more normally proportioned shirt and perhaps also a long flowy skirt to put together a look like this one by Polish designer Joanna Hawrot (found via NJAL), I could still maintain my individuality.

Then there's always my old stand by of layering dresses over pants. And I'd immediately snatch up one of these S/S 12 buttoned beauties from Jena.Theo if possible (photos via UK Vogue). I would however never ever ever do my makeup like that.

P.S. If you click on the photos to see what I'm talking about with the make-up (which is not advised), you'll noticed that Blogger has gone and completely changed the double clicking on photos thing. So to see photos in their original size to actually zoom in, you have to right click and 'Open Image in New Window' (if you have a Mac). If you don't have a Mac, I don't know how you do that, but you probably do.

Cave of Forgotten Dreams

2011-09-17T12:11:00.001-06:00

A week ago, I saw Werner Herzog's newest film, Cave of Forgotten Dreams. As with everything he makes, it was a completely beautiful and bizarre mish-mash of story, characters, and philosophy. Really, it could only have been made better if, say, Txell Miras had been in charge of the wardrobe. Anyway, there was this long drawn out scene in particular that stood out to me, as it somehow mirrored my first experience at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. When I first went to the Met last September, I wanted to look at absolutely everything individually, read every single little tag describing each piece, and take a picture of each piece for future home viewing. I also eavesdropped on the tour guides, trying to absorb as much information as possible. Within about half an hour or more, however, I realized I couldn't possibly do such a thing in my lifetime. So I more or less wandered through the halls of my favorite wing, looking closely only at random pieces and random parts of certain pieces, and enjoying the overwhelming sense that I was so small and insignificant among thousands of years of historical artifacts left behind by people somewhat like me.

Herzog managed to create the same feeling, having a few scientists point out numerous things to take note of in the cave for a first chunk of the film, followed by what must have been at least a five-minute-long wordless scene of the camera just panning over the various sections of cave wall art, sometimes a few times over the same areas that had already been seen multiple times in the film. To me, it seemed to reiterate the (rather comforting) fact that me and my problems in particular don't really matter in the large scheme of things, because there have been so many other humans before me and there will be many (albeit less than the number preceding) afterwards, and no one will ever recall or study my bad days or personal problems. Because really all that remains of the earliest humans that preceded us is their art. And, ultimately, that might be all that remains of us, as the English language (at least as we know it) will one day die, and all our technological devices will be too obsolete to study.

And so, it seems to me that sooner than people would like (or would like to admit), the vast majority of events that have occurred in our lifetimes will largely be forgotten, and the significance of certain buildings, spaces, or even memorial sites will be unknown. However, I believe it is immensely important to leave these artifacts, to indicate what was so important to us. Even if all that is communicated is that that particular spot on Earth was important to people at some point in time for some reason. You never know when an albino alligator will be trying to recreate our stories.

Festival

2011-09-16T09:49:00.002-06:00

To answer your question, yes, I will be posting every new update on the new Sigur Rós film and live CD, Inni, at least as long as Pitchfork keeps feeding them to me. I don't see how I cannot. As far as I'm concerned, Sigur Rós is the most perfect band that has ever existed, and likely will ever exist. And as the tour captured by this film was the best live show I can ever expect to see, it's release on November 7th will be a rather monumental occasion.

P.S. And yes, this song was used in that last scene in 127 Hours.

InAisce, S/S 12 (Women's)

2011-09-15T09:52:00.001-06:00

I'd prefer to resize these beauties so that this post does justice to InAisce's first collection clearly set apart as womenswear (which I could've viewed last night in NY if life was perfect). However, said resizing would mean that you wouldn't be able to zoom in on the details, and that would just be a crime. If you're a regular kOs reader, you can probably recognize the InAisce impeccably tailored nomadic/romantic aesthetic anyway. The question is, have you ever wondered what an InAisce-clad woman would look like to a hobbit? Well, search no further...

P.S. For those of you wondering, the 'An Aeon Drifting' collection, briefly seen here, was the men's S/S 12 collection. The more you know...

(Photos via InAisce's Facebook)

Because it's Fall, after all

2011-09-14T11:17:00.001-06:00

Is anyone else feeling underwhelmed by this year's crop at NYFW? I shouldn't be surprised, seeing as I tend to favor F/W collections over S/S collections any day. And it's not like I haven't seen anything I like, seeing as there's new Hexa by Kuho and some Academy of Art grads, not to mention this delightful designer named Kimberly Ovitz that I keep meaning to post about, but I just can't seem to commit to any photos to post (browse nymag.com for all the collections). Might've been Rodarte's use of a 'Starry Night' print that made me just want to forget I saw anything new at all. Sigh.

So how about we revisit some good ol' (i.e. previously posted) F/W stuff. Particularly Limi Feu F/W 2011 stuff. Brilliant warm, cozy, and layerable stuff. Tonight there's a frost warning, after all. Hopefully the crisp air will get my writing juices flowing again. I swear, I've started about five posts in the last few days and have left them just sitting as drafts. These days, I'd prefer editing posts than writing new ones. Does someone need something edited? Otherwise, I might just have to resort to creating an entire collection of (my man's) nose molds from San Pellegrino Limonata foil caps. It's kind of like Miss Feu's molded hats...

By the way, if you happen to be an owner of an ArtLab Bustle of Lysistrata, the above is a styling suggestion. One that I might have to try out...

(Photos via nymag.com)

Klippa

2011-09-08T10:40:00.000-06:00

This is simultaneously one of the most beautiful videos I've ever seen, and one of the most disturbing videos I've ever seen. According to Pitchfork (and the obvious 'Inni' in the corner of the video), this has something to do with Sigur Rós' new film, hence why it is beautiful. However, I believe what we witness in the video is the destruction of Jonsi's marvelous jacket that he wore during the tour, the jacket which I would've gladly adopted and kept in one piece. Hence, disturbing. At least it makes beautiful little piles of fabric squares.

Back to School

2011-09-07T11:12:00.002-06:00

I can't help but think I'm not supposed to be here today. A year ago, at the beginning of NYFW, I was in New York for the very first time, building the foundations for what would be my most expensive addiction yet. As I later returned around the time of NYFW in February, it seems weird to now be reading about other people getting ready for NYFW and getting fashion show invites in my inbox when I'm stuck here, without any future itineraries planned. Sigh. Not only that, but today is the first day of university. And, when I live in my city's university area and have to walk by one too many frat houses to get to work, it's hard to escape the sudden influx of 18-year-olds and American Eagle graphic tees. If I could, I would go to school for the rest of my life (and by wearing pigtails, I'd make quite a passable, albeit rather mature, 20-year-old). And yet, here I am, for the fifth September in a row, not needing to calculate the shortest distance between classes, or pinpoint the least busy washrooms, or stand in line for an hour to get the one textbook that Amazon doesn't have in stock. Again, sigh. I'll keep my fingers crossed for next September. School or NY.

Anyway, if I could do my first day of university all over again, this is what my outfit would be:

Barbara Í Gongini cardigan (now only 56 Euros!) + The Future of Frances zipper tencel top +

mydearthing silk husband tank + Norwegian Wood asymmetrical circle skirt +

moop waxed canvas Letter Bag + my chucks

In reality, I wore non-memorable blue jeans, two long sleeved tees, and a black puffy vest. I don't even want to try to remember what kind of shoes I wore. I was still blond at that time (and 11 years younger), so I'm just going to pretend that was a different person. I mean, I didn't even drink real coffee back then. Not to mention being unable to understand the Joy Division and Pixies references in the Gilmore Girls. Eek.

Spanish Caravan

2011-09-05T19:19:00.001-06:00

This weekend marks my first real long weekend in about three and a half years. It also marks the beginning of what will be known as the Endless Gilmore Girls Marathon (i.e. my man did not know what he was doing when he chose my birthday present this year). To celebrate, the Internets has provided me some lovely eye candy to share with you. These are works by Montreal-based knitwear designer Maude Nibelungen (found via NJAL). Maude is actually responsible for the knit pieces in the premier collection of Audrey Cantwell's new label, Ovate, so we've already been introduced to her 'unorthodox and progressive techniques'. I, however, still need to figure out how to get myself one of these pieces. I'm not allowed to wear hoodies at work, you see, and so I've discovered that all of my warm layers are now strictly weekend wear. Sigh.

And sows a bird in her knickers

2011-09-01T11:06:00.006-06:00

Oh my, has it really been nearly a week since I posted? I'm not quite sure how I squandered away August so poorly, but I am happy that it is over. Sure, it means that our 3-week long summer is now officially over (really, that one tree in our parking lot is already at least 60% yellow), but it means I can put this year of my existence behind me and have a clean (and autumnly crisp) start. For you see, today is my birthday. I am however slightly confused as to just how old I now am, as my morning surfing session has produced a lot of crotchety grumblings from this corner of the couch. Why is everyone changing their website? First NJAL changed (and I am still not won over by the new design), followed by Fashion156 (though I did actually like that), and, on one of those hazy days at the end of August, Pitchfork. Now this morning, Style Bubble is completely redone, and Blogger is launching a new interface for the dashboard. Too many changes, man. Sure, some people think I'm stuck in the Dark Ages without a cellphone or TV channels, but I like a simpler and quieter way of living. Well, except when I'm blaring my metal music. So, is it alright if kOs stays the same for at least a little while longer? Okay.

Anyway, to celebrate staying firmly ensconced in my dark and cozy corner, pictured above is my pick for a birthday girl dress by kOs favorite, Konrad Parol. From his A/W 11/12 'Les Mercenaires' lookbook (via Facebook), this knit dress (available in The Shop) still remains one of my favorite pieces from the collection. Looks pretty darn cozy too.

The devil collects it / with a grin

2011-08-26T13:16:00.000-06:00

I find these pieces by London-based Ji-sung Ha (found via NJAL) incredibly interesting. Ji-sung recently graduated from the Royal College of Art with an MA in Goldsmithing, Silversmithing, Metalwork & Jewelry, and titled her final collection 'Is jewelry more important than clothes?'. And it's hard to determine the answer to that question when the jewelry is physically a part of the clothing, as either the cause or practical use of the unraveling garment. That being said, the wearer of the clothing may find that they have ample time to decide which is more important, as it would take quite a while to style that long and possibly fragile string of fabric.

We need to talk about your TPS reports.

2011-08-25T21:21:00.000-06:00

I want an office job. And not necessarily for the money. Just so I have a good excuse to buy these new gorgeous hier apparel pieces. Though I suppose I need a job to make money to buy the hier apparel pieces. Hmm.

Knitprint

2011-08-24T10:21:00.000-06:00

I'm generally not a fan of trompe l'oeil as a style of print on items of clothing. Basically it calls to mind those most tacky of aprons where the big beer-gutted burger flipper is supposed to be mistaken for a slim bikinied woman one-third of his size. However, when the use of trompe l'oeil is actually handcrafted art that showcases something you do want to stare at and don't want barbeque sauce to promptly be spilled on, that is another matter altogether. Such is the case of Adel Kovac's diploma project, entitled 'Knitprint' (and yes, this is the very same Adel of LoveCarpet). Here Adel has not only created a collection of lovely handknit pieces, but also more ready-to-wear type garments that each have a photo of one of the knit pieces printed onto them. While I've seen something similar to this done before, Adel's decision to incorporate not just 2D photos of the pieces but 3D-ish lookbook photos (i.e. with a model wearing the garment) makes the effect quite charming. In fact, I think I'd prefer to have one of those printed pieces. Just think of all the fun one could have with layering and colour-blocking (assuming you don't have a pair of canary-yellow leggings in your drawer). Sure, you'll look like you have four arms when wearing it, but at least you'll have an extra set of hands to help keep your dress from flying up in the wind.

(Photos via NJAL)

Barbara Í Gongini, S/S 12

2011-08-23T10:24:00.003-06:00

Though I do enjoy getting (legitimate) emails of all kinds, some of my favorite emails are the ones from Barbara Í Gongini's PR, as they each contain not one but two magical lookbooks of Barbara's newest collection inside. Before I delve into the S/S 12 ones that I just received today, however, I must point something out. To those of you that hone in quickly on miniscule details, yes, I did correctly make use of the caps lock key when typing out the label's name. Prior to this morning's email, all but the initial 'b' and 'g' were capitalized when referring to the label specifically and not the designer. However, as the press kit and lookbooks now have the name using conventional type cases, I will do the same here.

But so. Whereas last time around I preferred the BÍG Black (i.e. basic) Line to the main line, with the S/S 12 collection I've gotten stuck on the main line (above). There are quite a few favorites that could easily end up in My Top 3 Want List, so you may very well see a new one in the sidebar later today. Particularly the dress below (though I'd wear it with the oxfords, not the heels). Similar to the A/W 11 collection, the starting point of the main line is the square, though this time there's also the added theme of deconstructed menswear (I especially heart that deconstructed/reconstructed mens button-up on the right of the middle row). And, of course, the collection showcases Barbara's penchant for making minimalist shapes quite complex through functional details such as zippers, buttons, and unexpected (arm)holes. Though the sustainability rating this time around is only at 30%, as opposed to A/W 11's 80%, these pieces would serve a freelance editor just as well as a professional David Foster Wallace reader, amateur recipe tester, or expert New York visitor.* Sigh.

And really, I think the reason why I'm spending more ogling time on the main line is that I'm already taking for granted the wonderful androgynous basic-ness of the Black Line. That, and the ironic fact that the B-L is much less black than the main line, with the palette consisting of white, khaki, grey, and black. The B-L, however, is more affordable than the main line (and has a higher sustainability rating of 40%), and so it is more likely that I'll be adding another B-L piece to my wardrobe (via here) sooner than a main line piece. And really, one can't complain about that.

*And yes, all these labels can indeed refer to one individual. Such as myself.

Slow down

2011-08-20T11:42:00.001-06:00

I may have to wait for the maple syrup haze to clear before knowing for sure, but I think I may have just found a new favorite label. The photo above from (Berlin-based) UMASAN's A/W 11 collection (found via NJAL) is what first got me, bringing to mind one of my favorite scenes of one of my favorite movies. Then, the silver hair (which I'd like to have in, say, twenty years) of the female model for the S/S 12 collection, and, of course, the gorgeous pieces she wears, made me look more into the label.

As it happens, the people behind UMASAN call it a 'holistic' label. This means, first of all, that only vegan materials are used (i.e. no leather, fur, wool, or cashmere) AND they stay away from 'chemical manmade fibers' (click here to read about the materials they use, including my favorite, tencel). This is rather reassuring, as a constant conversation in my house is whether things made of vegan materials are necessarily the most environmentally friendly. Secondly, UMASAN is committed to corporate social responsibility. They clearly state that they do not make their own products, but they do make sure they work only with European mills and factories that allow them to stick to their values of environmentalism and quality. Here is where I need to not be under the influence of maple syrup to decide if 'favorite' is the proper word to use for UMASAN, as I obviously prefer to buy from labels that do everything themselves. However, I do appreciate their honesty as to what their strengths as business owners are, and their recognition that it is best to allow others with the technical abilities to produce the clothes. And lastly, the pieces are quite timeless (and somewhat unisex), as UMASAN's standard is to 'slow down' and not become part of the fast fashion industry. Meaning that these pieces (which can be purchased at the UMASAN online shop) are meant to be worn and kept for a very long time. From seeing these gorgeous jackets in particular, I don't think holding onto a UMASAN piece forever would be too hard of a task.

If travel is searching

2011-08-19T10:31:00.001-06:00

So, it appears that posting anything of Carly Hunter's is a yearly affair here on kOs, and that annual appointed time has arrived. I feel like I'm maybe the wrong blogger to be posting this piece, as it seems pretty much made for Susie Bubble, but I'd really quite like it for myself.

This slouchy/oversized blazer is also relevant to my interests. I liked my button-up and blazer combo yesterday so much that I was searching for another button-up in a couple of local shops to get me to the next laundry day (and/or the next not-fall-weather day). But I was rather astounded to find that all the button-ups, at least in my immediate area, are either really quite oversized or have batwing/dolman sleeves, making layering with a normal fitting blazer rather awkward. Perhaps then I should be looking at a looser fit blazer that could fit one and all types of button-ups? Or people should just make normal shirts...

(Photos via NJAL)

Paleontologists have defined no faunal stages for the Holocene.*

2011-08-18T14:36:00.002-06:00

I don't quite get all the ins and outs of this piece, but the idea of a blazer with vented or cut-out long sleeves intrigues me. I suppose this one by Belgian designer Sofie Gaudaen (found via Clik clk) is more of a shrug or wrap, but even so. My dilemma this morning on how to wear a pajama-style draped silk top (that doesn't deserve to be covered up) on a cold day would've been easily solved if I had had this. Though my InAisce linen blazer served me quite well, I must say. The man yelling from his car at me standing in the bus stop shelter thought so as well.

*If you want to watch a beautiful music video, I suggest Bon Iver's 'Holocene'. Which basically has nothing to do with the geological epoch. Or, for that matter, this post.

Still

2011-08-16T10:22:00.005-06:00

1) Nearly a full year after laying eyes on Konrad Parol's pea coat version, I still love the idea of a coat/cape hybrid. This one (squint to see) is from the F/W 11/12 collection of Italian designer Barbara Bologna's AREA label (found via Queen Michelle's post today). By the way, do you think that whole braid is real?

2) I still love the S/S 11 collection from Yohji Yamamoto. Still ridiculously expensive even on the end-of-season rack, but more tempting after seeing multiple angles of these pieces on LN-CC.

3) Still love this song from Canadian duo City of Glass. Not that the song is that old, seeing as the EP (The Diving Bell) just came out in June, but the new video reminded me how much I like it. These are stand up guys that I'll always remember after sharing a pretty much magical evening in Vancouver years ago with them, a couple of their college mates, and my man. The details of how we all got from place to place are now all a bit fuzzy, but I do know that bowling was involved. Possibly also zombies.

4) Which reminds me: I had the NJAL page of (Central Saint Martins) fashion grad Marina Beresford bookmarked because I liked this dress/look and the fact that Marina titled her collection after (the film version of) The Diving Bell and the Butterfly. Now that I look at them together though, I think that looped skirt is what made the S/S 11 Yohji collection resurface in my mind (you can see the denim version of the Yohji skirt here). Hmm, I suddenly would like a loopy skirt.

I'm talking about drawing a line in the sand, Dude.

2011-08-15T12:01:00.005-06:00

Last night, at roughly 2300 hours, midway between an abruptly (skunk spray) ended bonfire party and an abrupt standstill in traffic on the highway between said party and our fair city, I was privately lamenting how fast life has gotten. Every cool kid (and adult) now feels the need to be constantly connected to the world around them, having no patience for waiting longer than two milliseconds to find an escape route from a congested road, see what is currently walking down the runway in realtime, or immediately receive and reply to an email or text (whatever happened to talking on cellphones?). It might be of interest to you to know that I do not really have a cellphone myself. I borrow (and share with my man) an ancient non-smart phone from my father for emergency purposes only, paying $16/month to turn on the still foreign-to-me device about four times a month, usually just to check the time. But as my man is now a professional and will be going on business trips and whatnot, he's considering getting his very own smartphone. Call me old-fashioned, but I cannot seem to understand the need for this, at least not with our lifestyles. We've both managed into roughly our third decade without being tethered to the digital world at all times, and I'm really quite proud of this (says the girl with a blog...). And I, for one, have even grown tired of having immediate access to the Internets in my home, as this access is often quite enslaving on those non-motivating kinds of days. Sigh.

Anyway, I was offered a job on the weekend which has led me to consider pursuing a career as an optician. If my resume is anything to go off of, I do tend to gravitate towards medical- and scientific-oriented jobs, but I also, obviously, have an interest in style and artsy things. As an optician, though not a high-paying kind of career, both these interests come into play. And practically speaking, it seems to me to me that this type of professional will remain in steady demand until the day where we can purchase bionic eyes at the nearest corner store. Also, eyeglasses have remained relatively the same over the past few decades, thus symbolizing to me, at least in my skunk- and bonfire-scented moment of pensiveness, a kind of bastion, if you will, of non-digital and tangible real life, where we rely not on an app or a 15-minute laser procedure, but rather a simple piece of equipment made largely from Earth-given materials to correct a physical imperfection. And after seeing, albeit on the Internets (on NOTCOUTURE, specifically), these brilliant Danish-designed and Japanese-made screw-less frames that incorporate good ol' fashioned practicality and, yes, technology (though technology that doesn't make me wish for an isolated cabin on top of the highest mountain), I feel that I can retain my non-conformist ways while still remaining 'cool' and 'in touch' with the times. Until MONOQOOL figures out how to put a GPS or Bluetooth device inside those hinges, that is. Across that line, you do not -...

You are currently online.

2011-08-12T11:22:00.004-06:00

It seems as though I always want to spend the most money when I have none to spend. Sigh. Anyway, I'll pass on my current wishlist (of sorts) to you in the event that the Internet gods hear and send these lovely items my way.

1) I saw a couple different colours of wool crepe fabric sitting on Lauren's work table when I was there in June, but don't recall asking what would be made with it. But the Internets have revealed that what I saw are new colours for the much-loved mydearthing Opening Dress. I love the new (4-ply) bronze colour, but am also tempted by the (2-ply) navy option.

2) Queen Michelle's post this morning led me to a new-to-me label called Factory by Erik Hart, whose new pieces are available at I Don't Like Mondays. I'm not sure where the pieces are produced, but I quite like the fact that the leather used in the jacket and the dress is actually vegan. I'm not one of those vegetarians that likes eating fake meat products, and I don't know if I'd want to pretend that I'm wearing animal skin either. But it's nice to see an alternative provided for those who do like the look of leather.

3) Now that I'm a fan of that lace-up pointy toed shoe style, I kinda sorta like these Melissa oxfords (also available on IDLM). However, I can't help but think that plastic would make my feet revolt (and/or revolting).

4) You may remember my post from a while back on Audrey Cantwell's new label, Ovate. I just had a second look at that post this morning and discovered that Audrey has just put up an e-shop for the first Ovate collection. I didn't know that those lovely looking loose knit pieces all contain leather (sigh), but I also hadn't noticed that the sheer chiffon pieces have a vertical print down the centre that is a line of poetry in Rune script. Those felted high waist leggings are pretty sweet too.

Inni

2011-08-11T14:27:00.003-06:00

I don't think I've been this excited about an email for a very long time. The rumor of a live DVD of Sigur Rós from the same tour that me and my man got to see them during has been around for a while. Since Jonsi went solo though, all things Sigur Rós had seemed to grind to a halt. But, apparently not! I shall now play Heima in celebration whilst attempting to make homemade wonton wrappers.

50% Viscose, 45% Polyester, 5% Spandex

2011-08-11T10:08:00.002-06:00

This morning I received an email informing me that Reborn has bumped down some of their sale items to 70% off. Of course I want the most expensive pieces, making this number irrelevant. However, I came upon a Rad Hourani piece that I absolutely love (even though it's only 50% off) and can't believe is still in stock. Only two of these were ever made, exclusively for Reborn at that, and it looks like both are still available. I think Jackie O would be wearing something like this if she lived forever and became the editor of a fashion magazine. Or at least I would, if I could actually land a job like that in my very northern hometown.

Speaking of jobs, if you're fashion-minded, have some skills, and are looking for a new career, you may be interested to know that International Playground (in Manhattan) is hiring a full-time office manager (click here for details). I would definitely be applying for this one if I lived in New York. Also, SHIN is looking (or at least was a few weeks ago) for some part-time pattern makers (click here for details) to work in their Brooklyn studio. Wouldn't you like to help make my newest favorite piece? Or yours, I spose.

Burkhardt/Möllmann

2011-08-10T11:13:00.002-06:00

While I can't say that the overall aesthetic of Berlin-based label Burkhardt/Möllmann (found via Arcademi) makes me feel the need to add a piece to my wardrobe, there's something about these pieces that I quite like. Or maybe I do like the overall aesthetic, and not the 'something'. Hmm. For example, I can't pick out a specific piece from the S/S 12 collection (above) that I'd like to wear, but I appreciate the Life Aquatic meets Top Gun feel.

And for the A/W 11/12 collection (above), I like the architectural element provided by the use of that stiff and plushy car upholstery-type fabric (eg. skirt on left). I'm also a fan for some reason of that added layer of hanging things, which seems like a salute to a Roman centurion's cinculum militaire but with less leather, more length, and more of a WWII setting. B/M actually had that hanging detail in the two collections previous to A/W 11/12, but it is best realized here.

My favorite piece, I'd have to say, comes from my least favorite collection, the mostly-white S/S 09. I can't keep a white shirt white for longer than five minutes, but the pretty gathering detail in these harem/drop-crotch pants/shorts would draw all the attention away from any conspicuous stains on my shirt down to my knees. And yes, I do think that generally this shape of pant has gotten quite old and overdone, methinks, but simply adding a speck of imagination makes them seem rather 'fresh', as they say.

Oh, is it lunch yet?!! I just finished my breakfast, but I can't wait to have leftovers from last night's dinner. I made raw tacos (though I made it non-vegan with real sour cream, applewood smoked cheddar slices, and honey in the fresh salsa) and this wonderfully light (and nearly vegan) macaroni salad, but had a house full of hungry people and no time to take pictures. Both things are absolutely perfect for a hot summer day when you don't want to cook (though I recommend having an extra knife and cutting board to recruit some help if you make both things together, as there's a lot of chopping required.) Next up I'll be looking to make something with the paneer I finally found, possibly these pea puffs. Yum.

Smythe

2011-08-09T10:20:00.003-06:00

Goodness, I do not want to be thinking of fall and needing to wear a jacket. But a link on the Facebook page of a local boutique/showroom (which deserves more in-depth research) has made me at least momentarily look forward to colder weather. I had never heard of Toronto-based label Smythe (from designers Andrea Lenczner and Christie Smythe) before, but it seems as though much of the fashion world may have, at least subconsciously, as it's available all over the Internets, and has been worn by the likes of Miss Lively and the royal Kate. The main focus of Smythe is the (made in Canada!) tailored jacket, such as a tweed equestrian-inspired jacket or a mid-length wool coat. And, as you can see from the Fall 2011 collection above, it's a good focus. Doesn't that first piece (which is knit bouclé) remind you a tad of that CdG sweater jacket I wanted for a couple Christmases past? Well, I'd be content with this one for this coming up Christmas. (Thanks.)

Speaking of buying, it appears to be cheaper to get your own Smythe piece in North America as opposed to the UK, but the jackets on this side of the world still seem to average around $600-$950. However, if you can hold off till the end of the season and scour out a sale (such as this adorable 'Mac Jacket' seen below from the Spring 2011 collection, which is $195 at 70% off at shopbop.com), Smythe is much more affordable, making these beautiful coats even better.

Recycled emotions

2011-08-08T23:23:00.000-06:00

Random thought, informed by my reading of this rather thought-provoking article about sustainable clothing (via mydearthing's Facebook), my reading of this less thought-provoking account of a very emotional but tasteless (pun intended) disposal of a McQueen garment, and my view of my very full recycle bin:

There should be a recycling program for clothing and textiles of all sorts. According to that first article (by Charty Durrant) linked above, 'we throw away over a million tonnes of textiles every year, most of it ending up in landfill.' And I find that recently I'm more prone to disposing of clothing à la the departed Ms. Winehouse, as evidenced by the garbage bag full of no-longer-needed-scrubs. I've also been contemplating getting rid of a very well-worn and once-loved dress simply because it's now associated with one of the most unfortunate situations I've had to deal with in my life. Just one stray comment made one of the hundreds of times that I've worn it, and now it causes me no little amount of distress to even look at it. I don't want to add to the ridiculously fast destruction of our planet though (and these things are too worn to be re-sold), so can't I just put these emotionally defective clothes in a certain coloured garbage bag or plastic bin so they can be taken far far away from me?

That frosty mug sensation

2011-08-04T23:22:00.002-06:00

It's quite obvious that the above pieces by Swedish designer Elin Sundling's label It's All Make Believe (found via NJAL) are quite beautiful. However, the photos look so much sadder than I feel right now and do not match the sunny day I've had the pleasure of enjoying. And so, I must post something that more adequately expresses my mood right now:

Seriously, how did I not know this stuff existed before?!

ARCADEMI.com

2011-08-03T19:55:00.003-06:00

But so, how I came upon Prose and a very wonderful place on (in?) the Internets: When I was looking around the MINNAPALMQVIST site, I noticed that one of the places where Minna has her pieces for sale apart from The Shop is a site called ARCADEMI (yes, just, ahem, ignore the fact that they use lambda's instead of 'A's). When I got to the ARCADEMI site, I basically proceeded to develop carpal tunnel. Because this site is not just a shop, as I was expecting from its listing as a place to buy Minna's stuff. Rather, it is an 'Aesthetics Habitat', where you can encounter an online shop, a blog, and countless (well, 884) portfolios and profiles to peruse through. Furthermore, one has to either be invited or be accepted via application to sell their wares in the ARCADEMI shop.

So, you might be saying: 'Isn't that what Not Just a Label is?' Kind of. But, BUT, on ARCADEMI, anyone can be a member, meaning that regular Joes like you and I can not only have accounts, but can also use these accounts to bookmark all the portfolios we find interesting AND all the individual items for sale that we'd like to buy with our imaginary money. I have said from the beginning that I wished NJAL would have such a feature (really, I've even emailed NJAL's head honcho about it). I just do not have the time (i.e. patience) to organize all the NJAL pages I've bookmarked over the last couple of years, nor do I have the time to go through all those old bookmarks to see if those designers have posted new collections or actual web addresses. Also, NJAL is strictly(-ish) about fashion. And really, the vast majority of blogs and websites I have bookmarked are fashion-related, simply because I'm always wanting/needing more sources to find interesting stuff to post. However, scouring NJAL and my bookmarks for the prettiest dress of the day simply gets old, not to mention feeling a bit flat when there's a life outside of fashion and my closet. Enter ARCADEMI, which is a place for young and indie designers and artists of nearly all media. Meaning fashion, jewelry, interior design, graphic design, painting, sculpture, photography, drawings, etc. can all be found in one location, entertaining my ever-shortening attention span and ever-increasing list of interests with all sorts of pretty things that I wouldn't normally encounter at my usual fashion haunts. Thus also meaning that things might get a bit more interesting around here. Yep.

Oh right, to conclude my description of finding Prose: Prose's was one of the portfolios I happened to click on after perusing every last comma of the MINNAPALMQVIST profile. That was sort of anticlimactic, wasn't it?

(Photo entitled 'Sofa', by Edinburgh-based artist Thomas Adam)

Sad Parade

2011-08-02T19:34:00.002-06:00

This model is super duper creepy, but I heart the idea of a peplum flipping up to become a strapless top, stirrup pants that are the opposite of lame, and ridiculously shaped sleeves that aren't sleeves at all. Nick Rosenboom, I would attend your parade, sad or not. Also, with a graduate collection such as this, I think I'm going to keep an eye on you. You've been warned.

And now, to return to my book...

(Photos via NJAL)

MINNAPALMQVIST

2011-08-02T11:41:00.003-06:00

So, as I said yesterday, I'd elaborate on how I came upon German label Prose. However, this morning's surfing session has altered the course of such elaboration. Let me explain. First, the other day on NJAL, I came upon Swedish label MINNAPALMQVIST (and yes, I believe the all-caps are required). I was first reeled in by the lovely sweater (above) that Minna has available in The Shop, but then I was intrigued by this line in the description of her collections: "The shapes we don't want our bodies to have are built in to the garments." Now, the reason why I find this so intriguing is that it never occurred to me that that is exactly what I look for in my wardrobe, i.e. voluminous and sagging/draping pieces to clothe my (hopefully) non-voluminous and non-sagging body. She also has a tank dress available in The Shop called 'Underwear Dress' that is meant to create "the illusion of being caught in your underwear or the looseness of skin associated with rapid weightloss." Interesting, no?

The MINNAPALMQVIST piece above in particular made me stop and ponder the ridiculousness of some women's clothing, as I've always gone home and immediately ripped out the foam or otherwise padded bra inserts that come with certain underwire bras or bathing suits. Well, I shouldn't say 'always', as there was a time when I did want to enhance what little I had. Anyway, for whatever reason, I tend not to throw out these cup-filling things, and it seems as though Minna not only does the same thing, but has also found a way to put them to use. Good stuff for a Tuesday morning.

But so, after all those words, I've realized that I've come no closer to describing how I ended up writing yesterday's post. And, as Minna deserves her own post anyway, we shall continue the explanation in the next post...

Prose

2011-08-01T12:15:00.005-06:00

Eek! I won't reveal the path that led me to discovering Prose, a German label from designer Miriam Lehle, as I will be elaborating on that most likely tomorrow. All that matters is that you see what is quite possibly one of my favorite collections that I've ever seen, as I love the overall aesthetic of this group as a whole. I somehow haven't happened upon Miriam before, even though she has quite the CV, including presenting at London Fashion Week's On/Off showcase and selling some of her pieces at Topshop. Anyway, I do know that I want this kaftan, available here. Kaftans are wonderful things, aren't they?

Oh, and before it's too late (i.e. today is the last day), here's a sale code to use at the Mandula online shop for 20% off: mandula. Because it's a holiday in Canada, don't you know.